When the need arose to add another sleeping place at the dacha, it was decided at the family council that it would be a double bed. The dimensions of 1.6 by 2.0 meters were determined for a reason, but because this is a very common mattress size (the same in a city apartment) and purchasing it will not cause problems. This is how it turned out later.

I will make a double bed according to my drawings and, of course, with my own hands. I will carry out the installation directly at the installation site, having previously prepared all the details.
The article turned out to be voluminous and detailed, so be patient.

If you are planning to make such a double bed with your own hands, then below you will find details, drawings with dimensions, photographs, as well as a 3D model of this bed.

Since the project is quite complicated, you need to prepare tools and materials before starting work.

Tools

• Circular saw.
• Drill.
• Set of drills.
• Screwdriver.
• Jigsaw or wood saw.
• Sander.
• Construction corner.
• Clamps.
• Roulette.
• Pencil.
• Putty knife.

Materials

• Beam 100*100*330 mm – 4 pcs. (bed legs).
• Board 195*45*1690 mm – 4 pcs. (front - back frame board and headboard).
• Board 95*45*1690 mm – 1 pc. (head of the bed).
• Board 195*45*2000 mm – 2 pcs. (side boards of the frame).
• Board 95*45*1400 mm – 2 pcs. (inner front and rear frame boards).
• Board 95*45*1800 mm – 2 pcs. (internal side boards of the frame).
• Board 95*45*1910 mm – 1 pc. (internal longitudinal board of the frame).
• Lamella for bed (820*63*8 mm bent plywood) – 24 pcs.
• Overhead lamella holders, adjustable (for lamella 63*8 mm) – 48 pcs.
• Birch dowel 10x50 (30 pcs)
• Steel corner 50*50 mm – 12 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 5*80 mm – 150 pcs. (for assembling bed parts).
• Self-tapping screws 3.5*35 mm – 50 pcs. (for fastening steel angles).
• Self-tapping screws 3.5*12 mm – 100 pcs. (for attaching lath holders).
• Carpenter's glue.
• Wood putty.

Based on materials:

As a result, I bought 2 boards 195*45*6000 mm and 2 boards 95*45*6000 mm. All boards are dry and planed.
I cut it to size on site in the store (for a fee), so all the materials fit into the trunk of my car with the rear seats folded down.
As a result, I “killed” two birds with one stone: my boards were cut exactly to size, and I saved on delivery.
I had a piece of 100*100 mm timber left over from building a barn and that is why I decided to use it to make bed legs. You can use any other material as legs.

Look for slats (battens), as well as batten holders, in specialized stores or online stores; in ordinary construction hypermarkets they are rarely available and, if available, they are in a small assortment.

By size:

Using the basic dimensions for the desired mattress size (mine is 2000*1600*180 mm), you can change the dimensions to those that are convenient for you. For example, the height of the bed legs or the height of the side boards.
The only thing that is not worth it is to reduce the thickness of the internal longitudinal board (45 mm), which divides the bed in half, because this value is determined by the seating position of the batten holders on one side and the other.

Bed assembly: diagrams and dimensions

So, if all the tools are prepared and the materials are cut to size, then you can start assembling the bed. And let's start, of course, with the base frame.

Frame making

We begin assembly with the main boards and legs of the bed, fastening them together with self-tapping screws.

Using clamps, we fix the legs to the side boards. We drill holes in the boards - the diameter of the drill should correspond to the diameter of the screw. Don't forget to countersink the holes for the screw head.

The side and central boards should be mounted 10 mm lower, because Lat holders with lamellas will be installed on them. The photo below shows why this needs to be done.

Before assembly, I coated all the parts with wood glue and for reliability (there is no such thing as too much reliability), I reinforced all the corners in the joints of the bed frame with steel corners. You can see it in the photo below.

Under the middle board for reinforcement, I made and installed a stand leg from a piece of timber. You can use any other design, for example, make it from scrap boards or buy a ready-made cylindrical one made of metal if you find one that fits the size.

Puttying and sanding the frame

Now that the bed frame is basically ready, you can begin to improve the appearance, namely, puttying the mounting holes, as well as other visible wood defects. To do this, use a special wood putty.

Apply the first layer of putty, trying to fill the holes as much as possible, leave to dry, following the manufacturer's recommendations on the packaging.

Important! Don’t try to putty all the problem areas the first time - it still won’t work. Correctly puttying should be done in 2-3 stages, with intermediate drying and abrasive treatment.

Sand the dried putty with sandpaper and a coarse abrasive, for example P80. I used an orbital sander with velcro abrasive pads. You can sand with a piece of sandpaper on a flat block, but this is more labor-intensive.

After blowing off the remaining dust, apply a second layer of putty and repeat the drying-grinding stage.

Finally, we sand the entire surface of the frame to a pleasant smoothness. First with abrasive P80 and then with a finer abrasive P120-180. Of course, there was a lot of dust...

While the putty is drying, we don’t waste time - you can start making the headboard, if of course you need one. Below I will tell you how I did it.

Assembling the backboard for the headboard

Since the double bed turned out to be quite heavy, I decided to make the backrest removable, in case the bed needed to be moved to another room.

For the headboard, you can take a ready-made furniture board, or you can make it yourself. I bought two six-meter boards and from the leftovers, I just got three scraps for making the back (they are higher in the list of materials).

I decided to join three boards into a shield using dowels and glue. In order for the holes for the dowels to match perfectly, I used the following “trick” - having marked the centers of the holes on the edge of the board, I punched nails without a head into them.
So that all the nails stick out at the same height, I hammer them in using pliers as in the photo below.

Having aligned the edges of the second board from above, I tapped the top with a mallet and got response dents on it.
To drill holes for dowels to a certain depth, I pasted red electrical tape onto the drill so that it could be seen.

Having prepared the holes (clean off sawdust and cut off burrs), I place dowels on the glue (pictured below). Having coated the mating edge with wood glue, I use a mallet to drive the second board into place.
The same operation must be done with the third board of the headboard.

Due to the lack of wide clamps (I will definitely need to buy them), I show my ingenuity and, using a car jack (I used it for laying floors), I squeeze a board of three boards in the doorway and wait a couple of hours until the glue dries.

After gluing, I send the shield for cutting and sanding. The most suitable place for this dusty work is the yard.

Having cut off the upper corners, I sand with an orbital sander and P80 abrasive. By sanding I remove small steps at the joints of boards and sharp corners.

The result is a pretty decent shield for the headboard.

All that remains is to install the backrest in place and secure it. To do this, I do the same operation with dowels, only without glue.

Installation of slats

Since the length of the lamellas exceeds the required one, they should be cut to the required size.

Having placed lath holders on the ends of the lamellas, we fix them to the support boards with 3.5*12 mm self-tapping screws. The distance between the slats in my case is 92 mm.

3D model of a double bed

Click on the picture, wait for it to load and use the left mouse button held down to rotate the model. Rotate the mouse wheel to zoom in and out. Watch full screen - icon in the lower right corner. Exit full screen - Esc key.
To fully view 3D models, you need to download the SkethUp viewer program from the official website (free) and install it on your computer. You can download this model for viewing by clicking on the logo in the lower left corner of the viewing window.

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How to assemble a double bed with your own hands - 5 main points with detailed instructions

Lately, beds made from environmentally friendly materials have become increasingly popular, and what could be cleaner than natural wood? The only problem is that the price of such furniture is exorbitant. But there is an option to make the bed yourself, as a result of which it will cost half as much. Let's take a step-by-step look at 5 important assembly points and try to design an inexpensive and beautiful double bed.

DIY double bed made of wood

I’ll tell you a little secret - among professionals, a wooden stationary bed is one of the simplest and most uncomplicated designs. If you can easily “communicate” with a screwdriver, drill, hacksaw and other household tools, then you can handle this kind of work.

A double bed has 2 main units - a support box that holds the mattress and a headboard. They are assembled separately, but the order is not important here, since the nodes are independent. Models where the headboard is built into the box are considered an outdated option, because they are harder to disassemble.

When constructing a double bed, the choice of one type of wood or another has an indirect meaning and affects the appearance more than the performance characteristics.

If the structure is assembled with high quality, then sleep will be equally comfortable both on a pine and on an oak or walnut bed. But there is a nuance: it is better for a novice master to take soft woods, for example, pine, cedar or linden, as they are easier to work with.

When determining the dimensions of the future structure, you should start from the dimensions of the mattress. In general, it is advisable to first buy a mattress and then make a bed under it. There are standard sizes of mattresses online, but it is not a fact that the chosen model will be found in the nearest store.

The dimensions of the boards and beams for the future bed directly depend on the presence or absence of additional options, such as drawers, lifting mechanisms for the mattress shield, etc. But the set of tools for making all models of wooden beds is the same, we will list the required minimum.

• Screwdriver.
• Wood saw.
• Set of chisels.
• A block and a set of sandpaper of different grits.
• Hammer.
• Mallet.
• Drill.
• Pencil.
• Roulette and ruler.
• Square.
• Furniture stapler.
• At least 2 clamps.

There are hundreds of models of wooden beds; it makes no sense to choose just one and describe its assembly in detail, so we will look at the main points and basic principles of the process, after which the construction of the vast majority of wooden beds will become a reality for you.

Point No. 1: DIY headboard for a double bed

In a double bed, the headboard is not only an important design element, it is pleasant to lean on when reading a book or watching TV. The easiest way is to screw a sheet of laminated chipboard, but it is hard, so the best option would be to make a board with soft upholstery.

Now the market offers a large selection of upholstery materials, bright furniture fabrics will become a real decoration of the bed, but if you are going to regularly lean your elbows on the headboard, then it is better to give preference to natural leather or artificial eco-leather, these materials are incomparably more practical than competitors.

Soft rectangular headboard for a double bed

It is easiest to arrange a soft pillow on a flat rectangular board. For ordinary decor, it is enough for the shield to be half a meter higher than the bed frame, and in order to comfortably lean on it, a height of 70 cm is taken.

There are several options for creating the base for the head of the bed:

1. The simplest option is to take a 16 mm thick chipboard furniture sheet. Its price is affordable, but since we are talking about environmentally friendly furniture, chipboard is not suitable here, since it contains formaldehyde.
2. Plywood - to ensure that the headboard does not sag under lateral load, a sheet with a thickness of 10 mm or more is taken. For such purposes, the “FK” grade of plywood is used.

1. But in order to be sure of environmental cleanliness, you can make a homemade wooden shield. To do this, a rectangular wooden frame is twisted from 30x40 mm bars; the bars are fixed at the corners with iron corners. After which the frame is sheathed with a 150x20 mm board.

• After choosing the type of base, the sheet must be covered with foam rubber 30 - 50 mm thick.
• The foam rubber should be 100 mm wider than the base under the headboard.
• The foam rubber sheet is wrapped around the edges of the board and fixed on the back side with a furniture stapler; the foam rubber is attached only to that part of the plane that is above the edge of the bed frame.
• Then, using the same scheme, you wrap the soft base with furniture fabric or eco-leather and fix the upholstery with a stapler on the back side, but this time the shield is completely wrapped in canvas, and the border of the end of the foam rubber is “pierced” with a stapler.
• The rectangular headboard is ready, now you just need to secure it to the box.

Soft figured headboard for bed

1. Using a jigsaw, cut out a shield of the required shape from thick plywood. Next, cut out 50 mm thick foam rubber according to the dimensions of the shield and glue it onto the shield. You can first stick foam rubber onto the shield, and then cut it along the contour with a sharp knife.
2. A padding polyester is stretched over the foam rubber and attached to the back of the shield.
3. Upholstery material is laid on the headboard and cut along the contour with a tolerance of 200 mm.
4. The upholstery material is wrapped along the contour and secured on the reverse side with a stapler.
5. In principle, you can stop there, but if you want additional decor, then a chain of furniture nails breaks through the contour.
6. Having retreated 100 mm, another chain of furniture nails breaks through.
7. The headboard is screwed to the box.

Upholstered headboard for a bed using the carriage screed technique

A carriage screed is a quilted upholstery in the form of regular squares, diamonds or rectangles. The popularity of this type of decor has lasted for a century and a half. This headboard looks really solid, but arranging a carriage headboard requires experience.

• First, we cut out the base for the future headboard.
• Next, we cut out 50 mm thick foam rubber along the contour of the base.
• The pattern is marked, after which holes are drilled in the foam rubber and in the base. The diameter of the holes in the base is 8 - 10 mm, and in the foam rubber 30 - 40 mm.

• At the last stage, the edge of the fabric is formed and fixed on the reverse side, after which, similarly to puffs, cords with buttons are inserted and fixed on the reverse side.

Keep in mind that the ties are made with stitching cord, and the buttons are inserted later, as decorative elements.

Bed headboard made of rags

The patchwork quilt is popular in rustic styles such as “Country”; when arranging it, you can go in two ways:

1. Sew the patchwork fabric by hand, and then cover the headboard with it using one of the methods described above.

1. Form individual pillows from multi-colored fabrics, and then form the necessary pattern from these pillows on the headboard.

Assembling a patchwork headboard from individual segments is also convenient because if one of the fragments is damaged, it can be easily replaced.

Point No. 2: double bed with lifting mechanism

With the help of such a mechanism, the under-mattress shield is raised and the owners have free access to the voluminous linen box located in the lower part of the structure.

There are 2 types of lifting mechanisms - spring and gas lift. The first option is cheaper, but it is less reliable and durable, plus steel springs can stretch and creak over time. A gas piston is a little more expensive, but it is much more reliable.

Point No. 3: main frame

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Array. To create the frame, a board with a thickness of 30–40 mm and a width of 200 mm is used. Only dry planed wood is used. At the final stages of arrangement, light sanding is allowed to correct minor defects.
	Mounting holes. First, 3 holes with a diameter of 2 - 3 mm are drilled at an angle along the center line of the end. The drill will come out from the side, after which, from this point, a subtight for the screw head with a diameter of 6 - 8 mm is drilled out.
	Chamfer. The chamfer is removed from all frame boards and lightly sanded with sandpaper.
	Assembly. The ends of the boards are smeared with wood glue, joined and twisted with self-tapping screws.
	Stripping. As assembly proceeds, excess glue will protrude; it is advisable to wipe it off immediately.

Point No. 4: puttying and sanding the frame

Puttying is used only if the frame is painted with opaque paints. There are special putties for wood; these compounds cover all the cracks and joints, resulting in a monolithic, even box.

Sanding the frame is done with fine sandpaper. There is one caveat: when painting, varnishing or oiling, after the initial sanding, the first layer of the composition is applied. When it dries, micro-lint will rise on the wood, so this lint is removed once with fine sandpaper, and then subsequent layers of decor follow.

Point No. 5: fastening the supports for the slatted bottom

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Bed side rails. A support beam with a cross-section of at least 50x50 mm is attached to the side ironing of the box. The bars are fixed in the same way as the box, that is, through inclined holes on self-tapping screws.
	Glue landing. In addition to self-tapping screws, the bars are placed on glue. In order for the glue to set over the entire plane, the structure is tightened with clamps.
	Legs. Everyone determines the height of the legs independently. For manufacturing, a beam with a cross section of 100x100 mm is taken.
	Installing the feet. The legs are screwed with self-tapping screws along the corners of the box to the supporting horizontal bars.
	Reiki. The mattress will be placed on the slatted tray. A 100x20 mm planed board is used as slats; the board is fixed with self-tapping screws. A ventilation gap of 50 mm is left between the slats.

Decorative elements

We have already talked about soft headboards, but this is far from the only way to decorate a homemade bed. Now on the market you can make to order or buy ready-made decorative elements for covering beds. This can be a small fragment or a whole carved wooden plate.

This decor looks luxurious, the only problem is that handmade work costs serious money. Alternatively, such plates can be ordered from a furniture workshop and made not from natural wood, but from MDF. There are machines that mill patterns in 3D projection.

Conclusion

Considering the recommendations outlined above, you can assemble a simple, but reliable and beautiful double bed. The video in this article shows alternative ways to assemble such furniture. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

Even the simplest bed model is sold at a price of no less than 7,500 rubles. For some it’s not money, but the main problem is different. Not every finished bed can be placed where you want - standard dimensions do not allow it. And if we are talking about a small garden house, a modest veranda or a gazebo, then the size of the product is the determining criterion, and it is unlikely that anyone will purchase a bed for such use in a furniture showroom, given its cost.

The feasibility of making wooden furniture with your own hands is in many cases more than obvious. And how to competently approach the solution of this issue, what to provide for - we will consider all the nuances of organizing the “home production” of a wooden bed with our own hands.

On many sites, it is recommended that when choosing bed parameters, you should focus on standard mattress sizes (2000 x 1500). The argument is that it should fit tightly in place. Whether this is really relevant, the author invites the reader to decide. One has only to note that the beauty of making it yourself is the ability to choose not only materials, but also the dimensions and shapes of any product.

The same goes for the mattress. If desired, it is easy to “design” it yourself. For example, from foam rubber sheets, covering which with fabric (a cover sewn to size) will not be difficult. As a last resort, the mattress can be ordered in a special workshop, according to an individual drawing. Therefore, it is hardly wise to “look back” at it.

So, let’s start with the preparatory steps for making a wooden bed.

Main - for the frame

High-quality wood blanks (boards, timber) are expensive. What can you save on? For the frame, you should take smooth samples with a minimum of knots. This will allow you to sand the wood more thoroughly (a sander will help) and decorate it with high quality, with anything you like. As a rule, homemade beds are coated with varnish, and through its layer all defects are clearly visible. But for legs and slats, you can purchase wood at a lower price. Considering that these elements are not so striking, second-rate products are enough.

The type of wood also matters. Since few people nowadays install homemade beds in living rooms (except from expensive wood, on special order), you should choose species that are less susceptible to rotting (). After all, such pieces of furniture made by hand are installed mainly in rooms (or outside), where temperature changes and dampness are common.

Among the affordable species, larch and pine can be distinguished. Spruce, even though it is a coniferous tree, should not be used. It has a soft structure, therefore, there is no need to talk about the strength of the bed. Its structure will quickly become loose, and it will have to be systematically repaired.

For finishing the bed

Homemade beds are rarely painted. Basically, the material is polished with high quality and. Few people use a primer when surface treating wood, although the advisability of its use is obvious. Firstly, penetrating into the structure, the soil strengthens its top layer. Secondly, the consumption of paint and varnish is reduced, since the impregnation has already filled all the microcavities. And considering the cost of high-quality varnish, which significantly exceeds the price of primers, this is an important aspect.

Drawing up a drawing

You will have to answer two questions - how many people the bed is designed for, and what age they are. Recommended sizes:

• width: for one – 95±5, for two – 180±15. For the so-called “lorry”, 130±20 is enough;
• length: for a child – 150, for an adult – 200;
• frame height – within 40.

But it’s worth remembering that this is not a standard, but just a recommendation. The choice of parameters is made arbitrarily, based on the specifics of the bed installation.

Selection of lumber

The design of a wooden bed is simple, but it is hardly reasonable to use the same samples to make the same type, but several different structural parts.

Frame

For the side walls, take a board (2 pieces) 2,500 x 300. Thickness is in the range of 20 - 25. But for the front and back there are options. To reduce the cost of the product, you can use ready-made slabs. For example, OSV or chipboard, but only laminated. A protective coating will add strength to the material, and solve the problem with an attractive appearance.

Some craftsmen assemble the front and rear “shields” from the same board, then covering them with thin plywood. How much better this is, everyone will determine for themselves, but the fact that it will take much more time to make such a wooden bed is clear.

Legs

A block with a side of 40 is enough. The length depends on how much you want to raise the bed above the floor. Exactly the same wooden samples are suitable for use as supports for the frame. It is easy to calculate the total length of the workpiece, depending on the bed parameters indicated in the drawing.

Frame

The mattress will be placed on it. A thin, narrow board (the main thing is to correctly determine the interval between the elements) and a beam of small cross-section are quite suitable. Alternatively, thick plywood or chipboard. The frame design is so simple that choosing the optimal blanks is not difficult.

Necessary tool

Explaining point by point what exactly is needed to work with wood to a business person is a waste of time. You just need to remember about the level (construction). At each stage of assembling a wooden bed, you will have to control the strict symmetry of all its components. To determine “by eye” whether it is smooth means dooming yourself in advance to redoing the entire structure.

You will definitely need a carpenter's clamp. In the process of making a wooden bed, an adhesive composition is used. Each of them is characterized by its own time of complete hardening. Since the workpieces must be securely fixed during the drying period, a clamping device is indispensable. How to make it yourself, what modifications exist for household use, .

The assembly itself, according to a well-drawn drawing and with the necessary tools, is done quite quickly.

• Any markings are small errors, which is quite natural if the wood is cut not by machine, but by hand. To achieve maximum identity of similar structural elements, it is necessary to manufacture one of them, the first one, with extreme precision. Using it as a standard, all others are made according to this template.
• When surface processing wood blanks, it is advisable to at least slightly round off the sharp edges. For more thorough leveling of the base, it is recommended to use a household sander. Working with this tool will give not only high results, but also great time savings. About varieties.
• Connecting structural parts only by glueing or using fasteners (screws, self-tapping screws) does not guarantee the durability of a wooden bed. The structure of the material is quite soft. During use, the bed will one way or another be subject to at least minor dynamic loads. Especially when it comes to the “children’s” version - kids love to jump on the mattress. The “shak” of the entire structure will appear quite quickly, which means that it will have to be repaired, and even with the replacement of individual parts.

A tongue-and-groove connection with gluing these places is a more correct solution. Typical parameters of eyes and protrusions: depth (length) – 45±5, width – 25±5. If it is necessary to strengthen the structure, it is advisable to use a metal corner. Lightweight, aluminum, “ten” is enough. These fastening parts are installed from the inside, and after the final assembly of the bed and laying the mattress are completely invisible.

Everything else is at the discretion of the master. For example, the front and back walls are made either the same or different in height. Legs - both square and round. If you “turn on” your imagination, then it’s not difficult to make a bed from wood that can be safely called “exclusive”. When the drawing is drawn up independently and the assembly is done by hand, there is no strict standard. And basic practical recommendations are given.

Good luck to you, home craftsmen!

Assembling a frame for a simple wooden bed with your own hands

The bed is the center of the bedroom, e e the main and most important part. Here we spend time reading a book, relaxing, sleeping and communicating with our loved ones. It is extremely important that the bed has a pleasant appearance and fits harmoniously into the interior of the room. Furniture stores offer many options for purchase, but most often the price exceeds the quality. Why overpay when you can do it yourself?

The bed is the center of the bedroom, its main and most important part.

Make your own bed frame much easier than it seems. In addition, a homemade bed has a number of advantages:

• independent selection of quality materials;
• confidence in the reliability of the assembly;
• development of useful farming skills;
• creativity opportunity.

Having made a bed frame with your own hands, you will receive an original product in a single copy, and it is in your power to make it unique.

It is extremely important that the bed has a pleasant appearance and fits harmoniously into the interior of the room.

Decide on the dimensions of the bed frame you want to make. Choose a mattress that suits your needs.

A mattress is an expensive purchase, but the quality of sleep and rest depends on it. A bad mattress can cause circulation and back problems. Be careful when choosing!

Making a bed frame with your own hands is much easier than it seems.

Try to choose orthopedic mattresses. For a comfortable sleep, it is recommended to purchase mattresses 15-17 cm longer than a person’s height. When the choice is made, measure the parameters and draw a diagram based on the measurements e f future sleeping place.

Be sure to make allowances so that the mattress fits into the frame and not e g on it like a lid.

Having made a bed frame with your own hands, you will receive an original product in a single copy, and it is in your power to make it unique.

! Mattress dimensions + 1.2 cm per side = bed frame dimensions.

We will make a frame for a standard mattress 2000 by 1300 mm.

Making a bed frame along with decorating the product yourself will not take more than a week, and your new bed will delight you for many years!

It is important to determine the height of the legs - try to imagine at what level it is convenient for you to stand up. The bed should not be too low, but not too high, although non-standard forms of furniture are welcome in a modern interior. Leave enough space for built-in cabinets under the bed if you plan to store things there.

Think about it in advance size and shape there will be a headboard.

Decide on the dimensions of the bed frame you want to make.

Selection of materials

The counters contain wood of varying quality. Try to buy the smoothest boards without knots - a large amount of loose wood will take a lot of time to sand. To prevent the bed from costing a pretty penny, you need to select materials based on their role in the manufacture of the bed frame.

For the frame and decoration, choose the highest quality wood, which can be expensive, but is durable and easy to work with. For legs, average in price and quality is suitable wood , and for slats (they will be needed when making a lattice that holds the mattress) - the simplest option. We will use pine boards as a highly environmentally friendly and durable material.

Some builders use chipboard to replace slats, because chipboard can be tempting with its price. But a bed made from this type of material will not last as long as a bed made from real wood.

So, in the store using a tape measure we select:

It is important to determine the height of the legs - try to imagine at what level it is convenient for you to stand up.

Required Tools

To make a frame with your own hands, you need a certain set of tools. The list is impressive, but the purchases will serve you for many years and will help you create other works besides the bed:

• plane;
• power saw;
• hacksaw;
• jigsaw;
• drill;
• screwdriver

Bits at 8 and 10;

• cutter, sandpaper;
• pencil for notes, metal ruler, laser level.

Leave enough space for built-in cabinets under the bed if you plan to store things there.

Preparatory work

This is where you will need a drawing. Measure the required parameters and mark the cutting lines with a pencil. Use a ruler and cutter to make the cut. When the blanks fully correspond to your design, begin processing.

Remove all knots and kinks using sandpaper. It is better to have several types of sandpaper: coarse, medium and fine. Start leveling the surface with coarse sandpaper, then move on to fine sandpaper.

Some builders use chipboard to replace slats, because chipboard can be tempting with its price.

The end boards and headboard are cleaned with an electric planer - this helps to create an absolutely flat surface and correct the lines.

Step back from the edges of the end walls by approximately 110 mm to ensure the correct positioning of the mattress (when calculating the seating depth of the mattress is approximately 50 mm) - a horizontal line.

Make marks on one and the other side of the end boards - retreat a third of the distance on each side - vertical lines.

For the frame and decoration, choose the highest quality wood, which can be expensive, but is durable and easy to work with.

The intersection points of the two lines are places for attaching support bars.

On the side walls of the frame, measure 70 mm from the top of the board. Using a laser level, draw parallel lines on them.

The head of the bed is a great place for creativity.

As marked, the bars will be located along each of the sides. Back off 20 mm from the ends and secure them.

To prevent the bed from costing a pretty penny, you need to select materials based on their role in the manufacture of the bed frame.

! To maintain the aesthetic appeal of the bed frame, use self-tapping screws that are no thicker than the boards.

The primer is needed so that the pattern is as even as possible and fits well to the headboard.

Screw them in from the inside.

Take the future headboard of the bed and attach it to the end side using slats (3 pcs).

To make a frame with your own hands, you need a certain set of tools.

! Check all joints and corners for looseness before finally securing the structure.

Remove dust from frame elements.

! Use a dry cloth. A wet cloth can ruin the sanding process. Irregularities in the slats can damage the fabric of the mattress.

The end boards and headboard are cleaned with an electric planer - this helps to create an absolutely flat surface and correct the lines.

Use stain and cover the frame elements. Next you need to apply two layers of varnish. We recommend using polyurethane-based varnish, as it is less toxic and more wear-resistant. The polyurethane-based clear coat is self-leveling for easy application. Wait for it to dry.

To maintain the aesthetic appeal of the bed frame, use self-tapping screws that are no thicker than the boards.

Fasten all the walls of your bed frame.

Lay the medium size support beams on top of the support beams (which we attached to the end boards).

Start leveling the surface with coarse sandpaper, then move on to fine sandpaper.

! To fasten the elements it is necessary to use self-tapping screws.

The main bed frame is assembled. Now you need to lay the slats. Choose the lengths of indentation between them yourself so that the mattress can be easily supported. Connect the slats with the longitudinal bars.

The advantage of decoupage is that it does not require large expenses, but it looks like a good design solution.

Next, the bed legs are placed. Attach beams measuring 40*40 mm to the inside corners of the frame. If desired, you can make a pair of support legs in the middle to ensure the reliability of the assembled bed. Consider the amount of space under the bed and the presence or absence of cabinets and boxes that can be stored there. Sun e this affects the height of the legs. Sometimes fastening the legs is not required at all, if you allow Yu t the height of the frame itself and the interior.

Measure the required parameters, mark the cutting lines with a pencil

Decor

We indicated the easiest way to make a bed look attractive in the algorithm for working on the frame - preserving stain and varnish Yu t the color of the timber, making it brighter. You can choose matte varnish th - less noticeable t dust and scratches. Glossy varnish adds shine to the wood, but reveals all the builder’s mistakes - unevenness, cuts, scratches. You don’t have to stop at the usual wood color; you can paint the bed in any color that harmonizes with the interior.

Another option is bed upholstery. To do this, you need to stock up on fabric, foam rubber, a construction stapler and staples. You can create a relief or pattern on the upholstery using curly nails.

Check all joints and corners for looseness before finally securing the structure.

The head of the bed is a great place for creativity. You can make it shaped, with upholstery, or paint it in an unusual way, for example, using the decoupage technique. This decoration option is easy to apply at home. More e One advantage of decoupage is that it does not require large expenses, but it looks like a good design solution.

Required:

• primer;
• glue ;
• varnish;
• white acrylic paint, acrylic paint to add shade;
• napkins .

There are special napkins for decoupage that can be purchased at an art supply store.

The primer is needed so that the pattern is as even as possible and fits well to the headboard. The primer is bought in specialized stationery stores, but on the scale of our craft– this is an expensive option. We take construction primer.

Lay the medium size support beams on top of the support beams (which we attached to the end boards).

Decoupage is carried out on white surfaces, so we use white acrylic paint, which we purchase at a hardware store. If you want to get a different shade, mix white and the color you like.

There are special napkins for decoupage that can be purchased at an art supply store. However, regular napkins will also work.

We indicated the easiest way to make a bed look attractive in the algorithm for working on the frame - stain and varnish preserve the color of the timber, making it brighter.

You can work on the headboard directly on the frame of the future bed or separately from it, if the design provides for the possibility of attaching and removing this element. Self-tapping screws will again help you with fastening.

So, you're done! If defects are discovered during the operation of the structure, this can always be corrected, because you know how the bed is assembled - finding a creaking element will not be difficult. Making a bed frame along with decorating the product yourself will not take more than a week, and your new bed will delight you for many years!

Another option is bed upholstery.

VIDEO: DIY bed

If you visit any large furniture store, it will always offer a wide selection of beds of various types and modifications. If you wish and have the opportunity, you can purchase any one, but it often happens that one or another option does not suit the existing interior of the house, or the bed is too large and bulky, or simply is not satisfied with the quality and style of execution. In this case, there is a difficult, but sometimes only way out: making a bed out of wood with your own hands.

Materials

Since it is high-quality materials that guarantee the durability of furniture, if you choose them arbitrarily, there will be much more advantages from this. Of course, making a bed yourself will require much more time and effort than simply buying it or ordering assembly from professional furniture makers. However, personal choice and constant monitoring of the quality of your creation will ultimately bear fruit and will pay off with the long service life of such an important homemade piece of furniture.

Choosing the material solid wood, you need to take into account that it has a fairly high price and certain difficulties in terms of preparatory work and the process of making beds.

In the absence of proper experience in handling solid wood, it is better to choose simpler options, although any product created, for example, from solid pine or oak, will look very beautiful and have enviable durability.

A sleeping place made from natural logs looks very impressive, but there is also the difficulty of purchasing them, and the unreality of installing such a bed in small rooms.

Considering the specifics of working with an array, the most common in use are different types of lumber: It will be much easier to create a bed yourself from timber or planed or cut boards.

The only nuance that you should pay special attention to when purchasing them is good drying: if the product is initially made of wet timber, when it dries, the structure will begin to creak or deform.

Shield bed- also an inexpensive and good option. Furniture panels are quite massive slabs that are glued together from individual pieces of wood.

Such a product will delight you with its beauty and practicality; the strength of the panels allows you to even carve them, but, as in working with solid wood, you will need certain skills: the specifics of furniture panels imply the presence of internal stresses, which you should be able to handle correctly in practice.

Fine wood fiber fraction (MDF)- an inexpensive and fairly durable material, which with additional processing (for example, applying a varnish coating) looks quite beautiful.

On sale you can find MDF boards both with and without a finished varnish coating, which will be a significant advantage if the manufacturer plans to carry out the processing independently.

Particle board or chipboard- also a material familiar to many, characterized by ease of cutting and processing, however, it should be borne in mind that it is better to use it not for the manufacture of load-bearing structures of the bed, but for drawers, backs and decorative elements. If the board is already sold with lamination, you can save a lot of time.

It is better to purchase accessories for a future bed from durable steel rather than aluminum. Aluminum elements are, of course, much cheaper, but steel is much stronger, and it would be better not to skimp on this, but to take care of quality from all sides.

It is important to keep in mind that the metal fasteners will need to be tightened as the wooden base dries, and if the fasteners are steel, the bed will take on the entire load at once, and there will be no problems with the strength of the structure in the future.

Choosing a size

First of all, it is important to decide on the size of the future bed: the comfort of sleep and the availability of good rest depend on them.

The optimal length of a sleeping place can reach 200 cm, and the width should be selected depending on individual preferences and body shape.

By the way, the usual classification of beds (single, double and single bed) was once developed based on width rather than length parameters, which should be especially taken into account when planning dimensions and drawing up drawings.

A small single bed can be 90 cm wide and 80 cm long, which is optimal for making children's models. You can also consider an option with dimensions of 100x100 cm, if the area of ​​the children's room allows. A bed of 150x150 or 150x190 cm is already close to the parameters of a single bed, however, the optimal dimensions for an adult are 150 cm wide and 190 cm long. You can increase them if the room has sufficient area and the bed will not look bulky in the overall picture.

When drawing up a drawing, it is also important to take into account that the best bed length for a person of any age should always be 15 cm greater than his actual height - with a margin, which will ensure maximum comfort and freedom while sleeping.

There is one more subtlety that needs to be taken into account when making a bed: the older the person, the higher it should be.

Of course, an important part of any bed is the mattress. It should be purchased in advance in order to plan all sizes based on its parameters. A standard orthopedic mattress can be from 1.5 to 2 m, with a height of 25 cm. In extreme cases, you can make it yourself - from foam rubber and other suitable materials.

Device

A simple bed from beams and boards can be made quite quickly, following a certain algorithm of actions.

For this you will need:

• 2 boards (dimensions 250x30cm) - for the side walls of the bed;
• 3 boards (dimensions 200x30cm) - front, back of the bed and headboard;
• beams 5 pcs 4x4 cm, length 200 cm - the supporting structure of the bed and its legs;
• slats 27 pcs 150x4x2 cm;
• screws and other accessories, depending on need;
• varnish, stain, construction adhesive for wood.

You will also need a small standard set of tools: a screwdriver, an electric jigsaw, a hacksaw, a plane.

To clean the elements - sandpaper, preferably fine-grained, for measurements - a tape measure, to accurately know the size of the corners - a square, a simple pencil for marking.

Cutting the wood should be done slowly, having first made markings on it with a simple pencil, or take a cutter and make marks with it. Usually, during the manufacturing process of elements, you have to make several identical ones. In this case, the first part is cut out first, which will serve as a template, and all the rest will be manufactured based on its parameters.

When cutting, it is necessary to immediately clean it with fine-grained sandpaper.

All corners of the bed must be strictly straight, 90 degrees, therefore, measurements will have to be taken frequently and carefully and only then the parts must be fastened together. Otherwise, the bed will not be strong and will quickly break under the weight of the person’s body. All elements are first carefully glued with construction glue and only after that they are securely attached to the tree using self-tapping dowels.

You should not forget to remove any glue residues, because their presence will significantly complicate subsequent processing steps.

After cutting all the parts, you can proceed directly to assembling and installing the bed.

The location of the beams that serve as a support must be determined by dividing the length of the front and then the rear wall by three. Write down the resulting number. Keep in mind that the mattress should always be at least 5 cm deep into the bed + necessarily another 2 cm (thickness of the slats) and + 4 cm (thickness of the bars of the longitudinal elements). The final figure is 11 cm. It should be noted at the top of both walls of the future bed, front and back - this is where the beams for the main support will be attached.

The bars are screwed from the inside. When making fastenings, it is important to take care of the screws so that they do not “cut through” the surface of the product - in order to avoid damaging the aesthetic appearance of the bed. The length of the screws is usually calculated in advance.

After screwing the beams, 7 cm is measured (from the top of the board for the side parts) and a mark is made with a ruler and pencil. The beams are screwed to the side parts of the bed with a retreat of 6 cm on each side. After that, 2 more small pieces of timber are vertically attached to the edge of the beams - with a gap of 20 mm to the edge of the board.

The headboard is mounted to the wall in front. All glued surfaces and edges are thoroughly coated with glue. The workpieces are glued together as tightly as possible so that there are no cracks or unnecessary gaps.

The headboard is strengthened with the help of several slats (usually three). The slats are glued with construction adhesive and additionally screwed. All finished elements are treated with stain - this way they will acquire the desired color and shade. After staining, as usual, comes varnishing, which is recommended to be done twice.

Once all the elements are ready, we proceed directly to the final assembly. We make a frame, fastening its parts with self-tapping dowels. Two load-bearing beams are placed on the support beams, pre-screwed to the walls at the back and front - and fixed. To give the structure maximum stability, legs are additionally attached to the load-bearing bars - it is better to do this from the inside, for aesthetic purposes.

The supporting structure is ready and securely fastened and now you can lay and screw the slats, leaving a uniform distance of 4 cm between them. The space between the walls of the bed and the slats should be at least 2 cm. Finally, the backrests are mounted, the mattress is placed on the bed and you can start using it .

Making your own podium

As you know, the podium bed in its many variations is becoming increasingly popular in our country. Craftsman furniture makers invent very interesting and practical ways to install just such structures in any place: from a large country house to an ordinary small-sized “Khrushchev”, where placing a large amount of furniture can be very problematic. There are plenty of podium models, however, the most compact of them is the one with several under-bed drawers for linen and other things.

Due to the fact that the presence of such boxes inside the structure can significantly free up the surrounding space, this version of the podium is the most popular among owners of small apartments and rooms.

Those who want to acquire a compact podium bed often ask the question of how to make a simple model with drawers with their own hands.

Speaking about the simplicity of this model, we should make a reservation that we will not be talking about a monolithic one, but about a frame base, which must be as strong as possible in order to withstand the loads that lie ahead of it.

Linen drawers located inside the podium or under the bed have the disadvantage of constantly collecting dust, because they are located next to the floor. However, this drawback is usually not taken into account much in the case when there is no other choice, but there is a desire to save the surrounding space in the best possible way.

Despite the fact that such a model is considered quite simple in everyday life, a lot will have to be taken into account when planning. The floor has its own mechanics and certain properties, and the bed partitions will interact with it all the time. This is another reason why the frame structure must have an increased degree of strength.

To make this version of a podium bed yourself, it is better to use lumber wood materials. This will ensure the strength of the frame in order to avoid subsequent troubles; moreover, the strength of monolithic beams allows you to “bypass” possible problems with load distribution in the following way.

The spar is calculated by analogy with the design of the frame - the “ridge”, which is usually installed on trucks designed for heavy weights.

This means that the frame must be based on a strong and thick beam, which will take all the loads coming from the crossbars, “splayed” in different directions.

To make such a “ridge” it is better to take two large timber measuring 100x50. The remaining beams of the supporting structure are made from 100x100 beams. Other parts can be made either from wood (if time and financial resources allow), or from chipboard, which will go well with any type of wood materials, provided that it is not used for load-bearing elements of the bed.

It should be remembered that particle boards, due to their ability to delaminate, do not accept either alternating or concentrated types of load.

However, if you really want, you can make a bed-podium on a frame entirely from chipboard. This will be a panel structure placed on a crosspiece, which serves as the main support, with a complete absence of small parts. The panels are installed edgewise on the floor and support the flooring from below. The main crosspiece with pads takes the bulk of the entire load.

Of course, the panel boards must be thick enough, at least 30 mm.

The drawers will fit inside, but this option has one significant drawback: due to the fact that the crosspiece cannot be positioned in any other way, half of the space under the bed will remain unused.

Of the two proposed options for a podium with drawers, you can choose whichever one is most suitable and possible to manufacture.

How to make a wooden bunk bed?

A wooden bunk bed is an excellent option when it comes to arranging two beds in a child’s room or freeing up as much space as possible in the room for a child. The cheapest and at the same time durable materials that can be used in manufacturing are boards and pine beams.

When calculating the amount of materials and drawing up a drawing, it is important to take into account the distance from the lower tier to the bottom of the upper one - its recommended value is 85 cm. This will ensure comfortable sitting below not only for a child, but also for an adult.

Below are the main elements of a bunk bed with their standard sizes (one element):

• vertical racks 38x76x1730 mm;
• strengthening racks 38x76x1730 mm;
• supporting structure elements (frame) 38x140x2030 mm;
• headboard slats (bottom and top) 20x140x914 mm;
• footboard strips (bottom and top) 20x140x914 mm;
• strip in the center (ibid.) 20x90x914 mm;
• side safety fence 20x90x1800 mm;
• stair railings 20x90x1510 mm;
• stair steps 20x64x482 mm.

The supporting frame is assembled from four pre-prepared boards. To ensure the reliability of the frame, an additional strip is glued longitudinally to the board and screwed to it with screws.

The bars, glued to the bar that supports the mattress longitudinally, will serve as a base on which the slats need to be laid across.

Railings for railings are made of simple treated boards, and stair railings are made of boards with the possibility of frame reinforcement.

The places where the steps are secured must be designated in advance, and during assembly, make sure that the metal elements securing them do not come into contact with the frame fastening fittings. The foot and head parts of the bed are fastened with screws - at the bottom with the supporting structure. The screws on the edge should be filed down.

The second tier is also assembled in a similar way, and the fence with the stairs is attached in the same way. As for the fence, if you have the desire and time, it can be done on the side of the wall. Treat the finished bed with stain and varnish, let it dry - and you can lay the mattresses.

It is sometimes believed that using ordinary nails in the manufacture of furniture is no longer modern and impractical, but this is not so. Nails can not only become the cheapest element of fittings, but also make the carpenter’s work easier, without requiring any preparatory steps in the form of drilling.

Probably, few people realize that ordinary pallets from building materials can be used as the basis for a durable wooden bed.

They benefit not only with their cheap price, but also with their good quality, because poor wood is unlikely to be used for transporting and storing heavy bricks.

In addition, over time, such pallets are used for their intended purpose, the wood can shrink and dry perfectly, which is its undeniable advantage.

Pallets can be brought into a more decent appearance by sanding and connected to each other with long self-tapping dowels. To give them a minimal aesthetic appearance, they can also be painted and varnished. In order to make a full-fledged double bed, you will need only four of these construction pallets, and from eight or more pallets you can build any kind of podium.

You should not use chipboard to make bed legs.: As already mentioned, this material, despite its widespread use, is not suitable for the manufacture of parts that can withstand heavy loads. If you take this lightly and make the bed legs from wood chip material, at best they will begin to delaminate and the bed will constantly creak, and at worst they may simply not withstand the weight.

The bed itself is intended not only to support the mattress, but also must have properties that would evenly distribute the load between it and the bed frame. The boards on the bed should be laid loosely according to the lamella principle, and the plywood panel for the mattress itself should already be placed on top.

Slat boards are best laid transversely rather than longitudinally, because this is how they bend slightly downwards in accordance with body movements.

Beautiful bedroom interior ideas

For a children's room, there are a large number of ways to create a two-tier ensemble, which can consist of more than just two beds.

For example, there are options in the form of transformers, when during the daytime, using a simple mechanism, the bed below easily turns into a work desk. If desired, it is also possible to make this type of two-story structure with your own hands.

For children of preschool and primary school age, it would be an excellent solution to make railings and bed stairs from improvised materials, or simply driftwood and small logs found in the forest, sanded and processed using conventional carpentry methods. Such an unusual interior will decorate the nursery and will always bring joy to the child and the possibility of additional space for games.

A pull-out bed from a podium will be the optimal solution when you need to create a cozy interior space in a small room. During the daytime, it can be removed inside the podium, thereby freeing up space for receiving guests.

The strong frame of such a product, which is based on a backbone structure made of massive timber, will allow you to place a cozy office with a computer desk and shelves for books at the top of the podium. If you take care of the exterior finishing of this option with high-quality laminate made from natural materials, the room will look simply great, despite its small area.

A large bedroom in a country house is an excellent reason to place a luxurious double bed of any desired design.

A bedroom with a carved bed always looks very attractive, and if you master wood carving yourself, wide open spaces for creativity open up.

You can cut out figures of various animals or birds and attach them to the headboards and footboards of the bed, and if you want to cut out patterns, high-quality wood will allow you to do this.

By the way, cheaper materials, such as chipboard, are also not afraid of such work and are quite suitable for using acceptable and simple carving techniques.

Using pallets for building materials to make a bed, a true creative craftsman will certainly be able to find uses for the holes in them.

The pallets themselves can be camouflaged by sanding them and painting them in some unusual color, and inside the holes you can place absolutely safe lighting for the bed in the form of LED lamps or lamps. They do not heat up and are quite suitable for such independent design.

If the bed is made in the form of a simple podium with a mattress lying on top, this also opens up enormous scope for creative thought. After all, the headboard of such a bed can be decorated in any way you like: for example, take old boards out of the closet, wash them, coat them with varnish, write something on them in an incomprehensible language, attach them to the wall at the head of the bed - and a mystical “budget” bedroom in the style handmade is ready.

Lovers of everything warm and soft can buy several pillows of the same shape and color and also attach them to the headboard - you will get a kind of panel with a touch of simple and cozy home humor.

Large colored decorative pillows can be secured to a metal pipe mounted into the wall using strong colored tapes. It is important to remember that feather pillows are not suitable for such purposes, due to the fact that they are quite heavy. Pillows made of padding polyester or holofiber are perfect for decoration.

A homemade double bed-podium, not adjacent to the wall, can also become a haven for creativity if, instead of traditional drawers, you place shelves with books inside the podium. Books can be either real or “fake”, and if somewhere in the house there are old books with yellowed pages lying around, then by filling the shelves with them, you can create in the room an indescribable atmosphere of a truly vintage interior.

Ordinary boards that have been lying in the shed for a long time should not be thrown away. They can also be used to create a wonderful rustic atmosphere by decorating the head of a small bed in the country with them. The boards are pre-sized, sanded and varnished. There is no point in painting them a different color - it is better to take a stain in order to enhance their dark, time-touched color. You can put a patchwork blanket and colorful pillows on the bed.