Slopes 

Do-it-yourself turntable for a crane. Secrets and nuances. What can be done for the garage

You can be sure that your young operator will love lifting heavy loads with this wooden machine.

Before your little one gets lost in video games, give them an imaginative gift like this powerful crane.

  • Dimensions: height - 635 mm; boom radius - 345 mm; track - 197 mm; wheelbase - 289 mm.
  • A hand winch raises and lowers the boom and bucket.
  • Thanks to the swivel support, the tower structure rotates smoothly to move the load.
  • The wide chassis with eight twin wheels provides stability and mobility on the construction site. (If you have a lathe, you can quickly turn out the number of wheels you need. Ready-made wooden wheels can be purchased at hobby and craft stores.)
  • You will need a small amount of straight scraps and a few screws. Other little things will also probably be found in your workshop.

MASTERING THE SKILL

  • Learn how to secure round pieces to a drill press table.

Make a chassis

Mark the centers of the holes for the wheel axles in chassis A. Using a clamp, pressing the chassis against the drill table stop, alternately drill holes 38 mm deep.

1. For chassis A, cabins G and counterweight N cut a workpiece measuring 38x159x305 mm. (We chose walnut.) Using a longitudinal cut, separate a 38 mm wide block from one edge of the workpiece and set it aside to later make a cabin and counterweight out of it. Saw the rest of the workpiece to the dimensions of chassis A, indicated in the “List of Materials”.

2. Mark the chassis on the workpiece A front and back bevels (Fig. 1). File them with a band saw and sand them smooth. Then insert a 9 mm drill bit into the drill chuck, fix the stop at a distance of 13 mm from the drilling axis and make holes on both sides of the chassis for the wheel axles (photo A) Finish sand the part.

Glue the mast and boom

Fasten the side parts B with double-sided tape, mark the centers and drill holes through both parts.

1. For side parts IN and prosgavok WITH cut two blanks measuring 19x38x660 mm. (We used maple.) From each piece, make one side piece and one spacer. Attach a Forstner drill with a diameter of 25 mm to the drill chuck and make five holes in each side part (Fig. 2, photo B)

2. To assemble the mast, prepare a pair of clamping strips measuring 19x57x610 mm. (We used scrap MDF.) Cover one side of the clamping strips with masking tape to prevent them from sticking to the parts. Place tape on one side of each side piece IN, limiting the location of spacers WITH in accordance with rice. 2.(The tape is thick enough to keep the clamping bars from moving and to easily remove excess glue.) Glue the mast parts together (photo C And D).

Glue spacers C to one side piece B. Apply glue and place the second mast side piece on top.

Secure the parts between the leveling bars and then press them vertically with clamps. The bottom spacer C and both side pieces B must be aligned at the base.

3. Mark on the side piece IN mast center 5mm hole for boom axle (Fig. 2). Using a drill press, make a hole by inserting 19mm thick scraps between the mast side pieces to prevent chipping.

Once the glue has dried, remove the clamps and strips, mark a bevel on the top end of the mast and file it with a bandsaw.

4. Do it on the mast B/C top bevel (Fig. 2, photo E) and sand smooth. Then sand the 3mm fillets on the top corners of the side pieces IN and upper spacer WITH. Insert an edge cutter into the collet of a router mounted in the table and mill 2 mm wide chamfers along the edges of the holes and the outer ribs of the mast (except for the bottom ones). Finish sand the mast.

5. To make the front D and back E For boom spacers, sharpen a workpiece measuring 35x560 mm to a thickness of 6 mm (we took walnut) and saw it into pieces of the specified length. Using a band saw, make a bevel on the front spacer and a taper on the back (Fig. 3). Sand the sawed edges.


As with the mast assembly, prepare 19x19x610mm clamping strips and apply masking tape to align spacers D, E between the side pieces F for gluing.

6. For boom side parts F Take a maple blank measuring 19x35x5 72 mm, saw it lengthwise in half along its thickness and plan both strips. Glue in spacers D, E between the side parts F (Fig. 4 And photoF).

7. When the glue dries, make a spacer in the back E using a drill press a 2.5mm hole for the cord, a 5mm hole for the axle and another 5mm hole at the front end of the boom (Fig. 4). Before drilling the front hole, insert between the side pieces F 6 mm thick trim to prevent chipping at the drill exit. Then mark the two tapers, cut them with a band saw and sand them down to the marking lines. Also sand the 3mm rounds on the ends of the boom and rout 2mm chamfers along all the ribs. Finish sand the finished arrow.

Add a cab and counterweight

1. Take the previously set aside blank for the cabin G and counterweight N. Mark the center of the hole at one of its ends in the middle of the width (Fig. 1a). Using a 25mm Forstner drill bit, make a hole using a drill press. Then use a band saw to cut a 10 mm wide bevel, sand it and saw off the cabin from the workpiece. Mill 2mm chamfers on the edges of the hole and the outer ribs of the cab. Finish sand the part.

Apply a little glue to the G cabin and glue it to the B/C mast close to the D/E/F boom, securing it with a clamp.

2. Before attaching the cabin G to the mast B/C, insert the boom between the side parts of the mast IN and a piece of threaded rod into the holes of both parts. Then glue the cab to the side pieces B (Fig. 1 And photoG). Now temporarily remove the boom from the mast.

3. From the remainder of the walnut blank, cut out a counterweight to the specified dimensions N. Mill chamfers on its edges (rice.1) and finally sand the part. Glue the counterweight to the boom D/E/F, aligning it in the middle of the width with an indentation of 13 mm from the rear end.

Make a winch

1. Cut out the sides from 12 mm planks I. Use double-sided tape to connect them face to face. Mark by rice. 5a centers of the holes and drill them with a 6mm drill bit using a drill press. Mark a bevel on one corner, file it with a band saw and sand it. Then sand the small rounds on the outer corners, separate the pieces and give them a final sanding.

2. Cut out the winch platform J, making sure that its width matches the overall thickness of the mast B/C and both sidewalls I. Mill a chamfer along the top front rib (Fig. 5). Drill mounting holes to attach the base to the mast side pieces IN. (For screws with a diameter of 4.2 mm, the diameters of the mounting and pilot holes are 4 and 2.8 mm, respectively.)

Through the holes in the sides of winch I, drill 5mm holes for threaded rods through the B/C mast.

3. Attach the sides with clamps I to the platform J (Fig. 5). Drill holes and screw in screws. (For 3.5 mm diameter screws, the diameters of the mounting and pilot holes are 3.5 and 2.4 mm, respectively.) Insert the mast B/C between the sides of the winch and through their holes, drill holes in the side parts IN masts. Screw in the screws. Now use a drill press to make 5mm through holes in the mast (photo N).

Place the swivel support in the middle of chassis A, turn the winch and mast sideways to access the bottom flange and mark the centers of the screw holes.

4. Turn the winch upside down with the mast attached and place it in the middle of the underside of the base. J swivel support, drill guide holes and screw in screws (Fig. 1). Then place the winch with mast on the chassis A and mark the centers of the holes for attaching the swivel support (photo I). Remove the mast and winch from the chassis to drill holes for the screws.

5. Take two pieces of 6mm wooden dowel rod, 102mm long, and glue a spool in the middle of each one. (Fig. 5). When the glue has dried, drill a through hole with a diameter of 2.5 mm in the middle in the coils and dowels.

6. In four wooden button handles, drill an axial hole to a diameter of 6 mm to a depth of 10 mm. How to fix the handles on a drilling machine is described in the “Tip of the Master” below.

How to Safely Hold Round Pieces When Drilling

When trying to drill holes in turned knobs, you are faced with two difficulties: how to hold the spherical part upright on a level table and how to prevent it from rotating when the drill is immersed in the wood. There is an easy way to kill two birds with one stone. Drill a 19x6 mm recess in the cut board. Place a piece of double-sided tape measuring 38x38mm on top of it (photo below left). Align the handle over the center of the recess and press it firmly onto the trim. Now, pressing the scrap against the machine stop, position the drill exactly above the axial hole of the handle and you can start drilling (photo below right). This method also works for wooden balls.

Finishing and assembly

1. Remove the swivel support, mast B/C and sidewalls I from the winch platform J. Inspect all parts and, if necessary, sand them additionally. Place the wheels and tub on a 6mm rod and place thick scraps under the ends. To apply a finish to wooden axles without touching the ends that will be glued into the holes, take a piece of thick wood and drill eight 10mm holes in it and insert the axles into them. Then make six 6mm holes at least 50mm apart in the other trim. Insert short dowels into four of them and attach button handles to their ends. Wrap masking tape around one end of each spool pin and insert the other ends into the remaining trim holes. Apply a clear coat to all parts of the toy. (We used a semi-gloss spray varnish, which was applied four times, sanding in between with 320-grit sandpaper. The wheels were brushed with a soft brass wire brush after each coat had dried.)

2. Place a wheel and washer on each axle. Glue the axles into the chassis holes A, inserting a thin plastic spacer between the wheel and the washer so that the wheels can rotate freely.

3. Attach the winches to the platform with screws J one of the sidewalls I (Fig. 5). Place a washer, a spring and another washer on each rod with a reel, and insert them into the holes in the side of the winch. Add two more washers with a spring to each rod and install the second side of the winch so that the rods with the reels are between the two side frames. Place one more washer on the ends of the rods protruding from the outside and attach the button handles, smearing their holes with glue.

4. Attach the mast to the winch platform B/C. Prepare two pieces of M6 threaded rod 92 mm long (10 mm larger than the width of the base) and thread them through the holes in the side panels I and masts (Fig. 5). Apply a little special fixing paste to the ends of the studs and screw on the cap nuts. Attach the swivel support to the platform with screws J winches and then to the chassis A.

5. Now take two more pieces of threaded rod, 67 and 29 mm long. Insert the arrow D/E/F/H between the side parts of the mast IN. Insert a long length of pin into the axle holes (Fig. 1). Apply locking paste and screw on the cap nuts. Insert a short piece into the holes at the front end of the boom and also secure it with cap nuts and apply locking paste.

6. Cut a cord 61 cm long and tie a knot at one end. Pass it from above through the hole in the rear boom spacer E, then through the hole in the back spool and tie a second knot. Wind the excess cord onto the spool by rotating the knobs.

7. Cut a 183 cm long cord, thread it through the hole in the front spool and tie a knot. Then pass the cord through the gap between the front and rear boom spacers D, E, through the upper mast spacer WITH and between the front spacer and the front threaded rod. Attach a weight hook to the end of the cord and wind the loose excess cord onto the spool. Finally, hang a small tub on a hook. Don't forget to put on your gloves and hard hat before turning on the engine and letting your imagination run wild!


Crane toy, 3.9 out of 5 based on 7 ratings

Many people are interested in how to make a crane structure with their own hands. Such a device can help in building a house, utility rooms needed on the farm, a granary and a feed warehouse.

Drafting

To build a house you need a crane. Let's look at how to independently make a miniature crane design for lifting construction loads to a height. It is necessary to manufacture a mobile dismountable device.


First, a design for the manufacture of the apparatus is drawn up and calculated:

  1. The main part of the structure is the supporting frame. It is installed on wheels or permanently.
  2. The rotation unit of the unit is fixed to the running frame.
  3. The boom can be rotated thanks to the creation of electric or manual control.
  4. The unit can be disassembled into parts for ease of transportation.
  5. The crane will be stable thanks to the creation of a block of counterweights and steel cable stays.
  6. The load will be lifted using a block and a winch.
  7. You need to assemble a crane with your own hands.

Blueprints

To make a crane, first of all, draw up a project diagram and drawings of the main components. Consider the manufacture of a manually operated crane structure. It would be possible to make a device powered by electricity, making it possible to move a load using a device on a long cable, as happens in factory designs. But then the complexity of manufacturing units increases, this will entail an increase in the cost of the finished product and an increase in the time for its creation. Therefore, we will focus on making a manual model.


Welding

All connections of components and parts are made by welding. For this you need a welding machine. You can rent it while working on the crane or buy it at a specialized salon.

Assembly of the structure

Prepare:

  • rope;
  • washers;
  • corners and channels;
  • pipe;
  • grinder;
  • welding machine.


The frame should be made of steel angle 63x63x5 mm. A 5 m long boom is made from a pipe having a diameter of 55 mm. To strengthen the unit, use corners measuring 30x30x3 mm.

See » Technical characteristics of the KDE-163 railway crane and other modifications

The lifting capacity of such a homemade crane will be about 150 kg. If it is necessary to lift panels with a larger mass, then it is necessary to increase the multiplicity of pulleys, which are a device for lifting loads. The chain hoist is made from blocks, connected to each other with a cable. This cable should wrap the blocks in a circle. The pulley allows you to lift the panels using less force than the weight of the load.

The pulley system is 3-4 times stronger. In this case, friction losses are taken into account, which amount to 10%. The greater the gain in strength, the shorter the distance the tool can move the panels.

You can prepare and make all the details in 7-10 days.

Another 2 days are needed to assemble the mechanism. The lifting scheme is made in the form of a 2-fold pulley. The boom rotation unit is a 6-fold chain hoist. The turntable is made by attaching 2 washers. The axle replaces the 30mm bolt.


To reduce the size of the counterweights, the support legs are made 2 m long. With a turning radius of the washer of 200 mm and a distance of 2 m to the counterweight of 100 kg, a load of 1 ton will be applied to the bolt. This is taken into account when calculating the design of the tool. Perform stability calculations.

The structure is taken as a single system on one support. It is the smallest distance from the axis of rotation. The system is affected by: the weight of the load, the counterweight and the crane. The lifting drum is made from a pipe with a cross-section of 100 mm. It should not be installed close to blocks. It is fixed closer to the washers.

Blocks are made of 3 washers. They must be wrapped around the cord, the diameter of the blocks must be large so that the ropes do not fly out of the washers. The blocks are fixed without bearings.

You need a flexible cable with a cross section of 5 mm. Its working load is 150 kg, and its breaking load is 850 kg. The pulley operates on the principle of a lever. For a chain hoist, the main indicator is its multiplicity (the ratio of all cable branches to those extending from the drum).

A crane is an indispensable thing during construction or repair, especially if you have to work with heavy building materials and the number of assistants is limited. It can serve as an indispensable device when lifting property and furniture to the upper floors of the house and will save you from dragging when moving. The construction of lifts can be done with your own hands from various available materials.

Crane for building a house and lifting beams and logs

Before starting construction of the lift, it is necessary to sketch out drawings to calculate the amount of materials. A crane for DIY construction should be easy to move and disassemble for transportation. It should not only perform the functions of a lift, but also be as much as possible:

  • light;
  • durable;
  • sustainable;
  • collapsible.

To make it lighter, the crane frame is welded from a pipe. It can move on three or four wheels at the discretion of the designer. There must be a place for a counterweight on the back so that the crane does not lose balance and fall when lifting a load.

After making the platform on wheels, a beam is installed diagonally to the ground level and a stand under it in the form of a support welded from pipes. If desired, the height of the boom can be made retractable and with the ability to raise or lower it for ease of operation.

At the bottom of the boom, a winch (manual or electric) is installed on the body so that the cable can be easily removed from the upper roller of the boom and it serves to pull heavy logs and timber to the crane for easy lifting.


A hook is installed at the end of the cable. Additionally, a special device is made for gripping logs and beams in the form of the letter "P". A rod is installed at the top in the center of this device to engage it with a hook. A clamp in the form of a screw is made on the side in the center, which will hold the building material.

When lifting a log or beam to the desired height, the crane on wheels easily rolls to the desired side, and the material is lowered into place for further installation and fastening. The lift structure must be on a flat, hard surface for easy movement.

Such lifting mechanisms help to carry out work efficiently and quickly with minimal physical exertion, which can be done by children.

Horizontal boom lift

A crane with a horizontal boom is manufactured as follows. A frame is welded from a pipe or angle crosswise on wheels, on which in the rear part it is necessary to make a place for a counterweight to avoid the loss of balance of the crane during operation and its fall. Wheels are installed on it for easier movement. The larger the frame area, the more stable the crane.

Stops are installed on its edges near the wheels to prevent movement during operation.

After manufacturing the frame, a mast is installed vertically in its center, on which the boom is fixed. The fastening must be strong, it must rotate around its axis.

An additional stop with a handle is attached horizontally from the vertical mast to rotate it. A place for attaching a manual or electric winch is installed on it. Another mast is additionally mounted vertically to the stop, which is attached from above to the boom to provide greater stability and strengthen its fixation.

At the top, a boom is attached to both masts, equipped at both ends with rollers for the cable, so that the central vertical support rests on the center of the boom, and the second, additional one, exactly in the center between the first mast and the rear edge of the boom.

A winch is placed on a horizontal support fixed to the second vertical mast.


Its cable first passes through the roller on the back side of the boom, then through the front roller with a hook at the end. The entire crane structure is assembled with utmost strength and can be disassembled for ease of transportation. A gripper is installed that lifts the blocks.

Design made from improvised materials for work in the garage

Such a homemade lift is especially needed for those who repair cars, forlifting or installing heavy machine components and assemblies.


The crane is assembled from a frame, which is welded from a pipe, an iron profile, and angles. It is easier to install them crosswise, since this arrangement provides greater stability of the crane. Wheels are attached to the edges for easy movement around the garage.

Materials for the crane were mainly found in scrap metal. We only had to buy bearings, a winch, and order parts for the turning mechanism from a turner.

And I also had to pay a welder, since I myself cannot do welding work, due to some vision problems.

In general, this crane cost 5,000 rubles, which cannot be compared with the amount of work that I managed to complete with its help, because the “cheapest” helper in our region costs 800 rubles per day.

I’ll immediately make a reservation that during operation, my faucet revealed some shortcomings, which I will point out and advise on how to correct them. So your faucet will be a little different from mine.

Let's start with the rotating mechanism

It consists of six parts that need to be ordered by a turner, and two bearings.

As you can see, there are no dimensions in the drawing. The fact is that you don’t have to follow the exact size, like mine. After all, we make the faucet from available material, and I cannot know what size channel or I-beam, or what kind of pipe you will have at hand.

A little more or a little less doesn’t matter in my design. And you will understand this from further instructions. And having generally estimated what materials and parts you have, determine what dimensions to take for the manufacture of the rotating mechanism.

The mechanism has two bearings. At the top, between the housing and the base, there is a support bearing. Below, again between the housing and the base, there is a simple radial bearing.


Or rather, the housing should be mounted on the bearing, and the base should fit into it. Thus, both of these parts are connected. For more reliable fixation of the radial bearing, a nut is screwed onto the housing from below. The thickness of the threaded and retaining parts of the nut is at your discretion, but not less than 3 mm.

Then this unit is attached to the platform with a bolt (I have an M 26), which attracts the base to the platform. Thus, it turns out that the platform and base are a stationary part of the mechanism, and the body with the nut is rotating.

Now a little about what practice has shown. Towards the end of the season, the radial bearing weakened a little, and a barely noticeable play formed in the turning mechanism.

But with a boom length of 5 meters, this play became noticeably noticeable, so I recommend installing a hub bearing, 36 mm wide, instead of a radial bearing.


Here in Kazan, support and wheel bearings can be bought for 500 rubles both. And to tighten the bolt securing the base to the platform, you will need a spanner with an extension, and definitely two washers - a flat one and a lock washer.

Our next node will be the rack.


To make it you will need a piece of pipe (I have d140) and four pieces of channel. You need to estimate the height of the stand so that when finished it will be just right for you. Even two centimeters lower. Then it will be convenient to turn the winch when operating the crane.

Since God is unlikely to send you a piece of pipe with an evenly cut end, you will have to cut one end yourself. To do this, we take a car clamp, or make a clamp from a strip of tin, and tighten it on the pipe.

When tightened, the clamp will try to position itself on the pipe as evenly as possible, and if you help it a little (by eye), you will get a fairly even line around the circumference of the pipe, which you just have to draw, then remove the clamp, and cut the pipe along this line using a grinder .

Then, the rotating mechanism platform is welded to this flat end of the pipe. Now it’s clear why I didn’t give the dimensions in the drawing? You still have to order the rotating mechanism. And you can find a tuba. This means the diameter of the platform can be ordered according to the diameter of the pipe.

Now the legs. They need to be welded so that the stand does not collapse. How to do it? Firstly, they need to be cut to the same length.

Then hang the pipe with the welded platform, passing the rope through the hole in the center of the platform, and place your legs diagonally towards the pipe, so that in the end, the pipe remains hanging evenly, and your legs rest against it on all four sides.

As soon as the balance is found, you need to draw by eye the corners of the channels that abut the pipe, and trim them with a grinder as shown in the photo.

After trimming the corners, lean your legs against the pipe again, catch your balance, check with a rack and tape so that they form an even cross, and secure them with welding. After tacking, check the cross again, and you can weld.

All that remains is to make the support cross itself. It can be made from any rigid profile. At first there was an idea to put it on wheels made of bearings, but time was running out, and it didn’t come to the wheels, but actually it would have been nice. The unit turned out to be quite heavy, and it was difficult to move it.


The length of the arms of the cross is 1.7 meters, although as operation has shown, this cross does not play a particularly large role in the stability of the crane. The main stability is provided by balance, which we will talk about later.

The cross is not welded to the legs, but is attached with M 10 bolts and nuts. This was done for ease of possible transportation. The legs were reinforced in anticipation of installing wheels, but they never got around to it, although the idea of ​​installing them is still there.

The stand with the rotating mechanism is ready, now let's move on to the crane platform, on which the counterweight, winches, and boom will be installed. I found a one and a half meter I-beam, 180 mm wide, for the platform. But I think you can use a channel and even a 150 x 200 beam under it.

At first I even wanted to use timber, but since I found an I-beam, I chose it. The platform is attached to the rotary mechanism body with four bolts and M 10 nuts.


If you use timber instead of an I-beam, then you will need to make additional platforms for it, above and below. You can “encircle” it with two pieces of channel and tighten everything with bolts.

But we’ll wait with the bolts for now, since the place where the platform is attached to the rotating mechanism will need to be selected based on balance. That is, the crane boom must be balanced by a block for counterweights and a winch. That is, the crane must stand confidently on the stand and not fall over.

Next will be the counterweight block.


I have it made from pieces of the same channel as the platform, but it can be made from anything, and in any way. The main thing is to have a container in which you can install loads, so that if necessary, you can increase the counterweight.

Now about the winch. My winch is installed with a capacity of 500 kg, with a brake. And once again, as practice has shown, such power was not enough to lift a load of about 100 kg.

That is, you can lift it, but you have to lean so hard on the handle that when lifting to a height of more than 5 meters, you get tired very quickly. For such a crane you need a winch of 1 - 1.5 tons.

There was also supposed to be a second winch for lifting the boom, but at that time, having visited a bunch of shops and markets, I could find only one winch with a brake, which you see in the photo. Therefore, instead of a second winch, a temporary tension cable was made, the length of which is still changed using clamps.


Unfortunately, there is nothing more permanent than a temporary structure. I still recommend that you install a winch instead, preferably a worm one. Its speed is low, and the brake, whether up or down, is dead. That's what an arrow needs.

All that remains is to make an arrow, which is what we will do. The boom consists of a mount with a shaft, a beam 150 x 50, and a tip with a pulley.



First, the mounting body. It is better to make it from a piece of channel wood.


Any round timber with a diameter of 20 to 30 mm will do for the shaft. For example, I cut off a piece of the rotor shaft of some old engine. Then we bend it in a vice, put two brackets around this shaft and fasten it to the channel, into which the beam will then be inserted.


We buy two simple bearings, so that they fit tightly onto the shaft, and cut out a seat in the mounting body.


Of course, you can dream up how to secure the bearings in the housing. Besides mine, there are probably a dozen more ways. And I found an ebonite plate, 10 mm thick, from which I made these fasteners.


The boom itself is a beam 150 x 50, 5 meters long. It is inserted into a channel 80 mm wide and 2.5 meters long. True, I had to trim it a little so that it would go inside the channel. I have a channel installed, 3.5 meters long, but this is only because at that time there was no good timber at hand with small knots. I simply played it safe, which, unfortunately, increased the weight of the arrow.

The timber is secured to the channel with ties made from a metal strip 3 mm thick.


At the end of the boom, you need to attach a pulley for the cable. Mine is made from a wheel from a trolley bag. For skilled hands, I think there are plenty of options for attaching the pulley. At first it was fastened between two pieces of plywood, but then I made a fastening from a channel.


Now you can assemble the arrow, if not for one “but”. During operation, the brackets with which the shaft is attached to the channel turned out to be rather weak. So I made them stronger.



And one more addition. My reinforcing part is secured with four bolts. You need to add two more on top to make the unit more rigid. Although mine works fine with four bolts. Otherwise I would have added it a long time ago.

Now you can assemble the entire crane platform, that is, install a winch on it, a block for counterweights under the winch, and at the other end - a boom lifting body with a boom. If there is, then a second winch, if not, then a guy rope, like I have.

All this is assembled in a lying position, and upon completion it is raised vertically, onto some kind of support. For example, I stacked several pallets on top of each other and placed the assembled platform on them so that the counterweight hung freely downwards.

Then we attach the rotating mechanism to the stand. The most important thing remains - install the platform on the stand so that the boom and counterweight balance each other.

Unfortunately, I don’t have any photographs of the structure that I built for this, well, I’ll try to explain it this way.

This design is a tripod with a block at the top. The height of the tripod is approximately three meters. It is made from timber 100 x 50. As you probably already guessed, the assembled crane platform needs to be suspended and raised so that a stand can be placed under it.

The platform will be raised using its own winch. To do this, we pass the winch cable through the block and hook it to the boom lifting body, which is located at the opposite end of the platform.

Now, if you operate the winch upward, the entire platform will rise. But during the rise, the arrow, raised up, begins to collapse, so you need to either call a couple of assistants who will fix the arrow in a vertical position, or make another tripod (as I did) with a block 6 meters high, and tie rope to the end of the arrow, let it through the block, and pull it up as the platform rises.

Having suspended the platform in this way and placed a stand under it, you can lower and raise the platform and move the stand to find a position in which the counterweight will balance the boom.

In this position, drill 4 through holes and bolt the platform to the rack. OK it's all over Now. The tap is ready. You can start testing.

Well, a couple of examples of operation:



General view of my faucet:

If the article does not answer your question, ask it in the comments. I will try to answer as quickly as possible.

I wish you success in your work, as well as the opportunity to lift and move everything you need and where you need it.

When building a house from aerated concrete, timber, brick, etc. There is often a need to lift a load. For example, you need to “throw” blocks or wooden beams onto the second floor, lift bags of cement, or pour an armored belt. Doing this manually, even with the help of assistants, is not so easy - health is more expensive. Hiring a truck crane or manipulator for a small amount of work is expensive. The solution is to use a mini-crane, which, to reduce the cost of construction, is made by hand.

  • How to make a lift for laying aerated concrete.
  • What parts and tools are needed to build a mini crane.
  • How to reduce the costs of building a universal lift.

Lift for laying aerated concrete blocks

Abroad, during the construction of private houses, cranes and various lifts are often used. This way construction goes faster, which means the “box” is cheaper, because It is more profitable to use small-scale mechanization tools than to hire laborers. Our developer relies on himself and often builds a house “with one helmet.” Therefore, the urgent question is how not to physically overstrain yourself when laying a wall from aerated concrete blocks weighing 35-40 kg.

An interesting variant of an unusual homemade “assistant” of the FORUMHOUSE user with the nickname Cross. First, let's show what he took as a basis.

German mini crane with retractable central post

A special feature of the lift is the original folding “arm-boom”, with the help of which the crane, moving on wheels, can reach two opposite walls.

Cross

I am building a house myself and, in order to be able to lay aerated concrete blocks, I built a lift according to the above model. The crane was made completely collapsible, except for the base. I didn’t measure the maximum load on the hook, but it easily lifts me (weighing 95 kg).

Technical characteristics of the lift:

  • width – 2200 mm;
  • height – 4200 mm;
  • boom radius – 4200 mm;
  • load capacity of electric hoist – up to 800 kg;
  • total weight of the crane with ballast is approximately 650 kg;
  • lift weight without ballast – about 300 kg;
  • The maximum lifting height of the masonry block is 3500 mm.

The working height of lifting blocks is adjustable in two ranges. The first is 1750 mm. The second is 3.5 m, for which the structure is raised, sliding upward along the supporting “legs” using a hydraulic jack lined with spacers made of GB blocks.

To make the lift, the user needed:

  • swivel wheels;
  • profile pipes for the mast, “legs” and boom with a section of 12x12 cm, 12x6 cm, wall 6 mm;
  • pipe-jibs – 63x3 mm;
  • powerful gate hinges;
  • The boom rotating mechanism is made of ST45 steel and “205” bearings.

During operation, the design was modified. For example, the user laid the cable for the winch in a corrugated pipe and extended the cable for the control panel.

Cross

The design has a number of shortcomings that I would like to correct. For example, I’m thinking about making wireless control, replacing the gate hinges with bearings. Increase the number of “joints” in the boom at the same reach. Instead of a temporary counterweight - bags of sand concrete, pour concrete ballast.

Important nuance: in order for the lift to move around the construction site or, for example, over the concrete slab of the second floor, it is necessary to keep the workplace clean, because GB fragments and debris interfere with the relocation of the tap.

The design of the unusual lift attracted the interest of portal users.

Konstantin Y. Member of FORUMHOUSE

With such a lift, I think, as they do in Germany, you need to make masonry from blocks larger than standard ones. The length and height are 2-3 times greater than a regular GB. The crane has enough lifting capacity, and the laying speed will increase significantly.

According to Cross, he heard that someone on the portal had already tried to order blocks of 1x0.4x0.6 m format from a gas silicate manufacturer. But it turned out that this was not profitable for the plant, because it is necessary to reconfigure the line for the production of GB, but for the sake of a small volume (for an ordinary private house) they will not do this.

Vegaroma FORUMHOUSE Member

I'm wondering: is the work on site easier when using a crane? What work can be done with it and what cannot?

Cross

There is no need to install scaffolding when laying GB walls. The lift can be assembled and disassembled. I poured the concrete lintels over the windows the old fashioned way, from buckets, because... The volume is small, and it’s easier to do it with one assistant.

Grand total: The mini-crane turned out to be successful, and with some modifications to its design, the lift can be put into small-scale production.

Mini crane made from scrap metal

Another version of a lifting mechanism made of metal “lying under your feet” was made by a portal participant with the nickname Peter 1.

According to Peter 1, The reason for building a crane is that the house is getting higher and higher, and the blocks and concrete are getting heavier. Therefore, after revising the “unnecessary things”, the user manufactured a completely dismountable crane with a lifting capacity of 200 kg.

Peter 1

I think my crane can lift more, but I didn’t overload it. The crane can be disassembled into parts weighing 30-60 kg and can be easily transported in a car trailer. I carry an arrow on the trunk. Statically tested a structure weighing 400 kg. I usually lift up to 150 kg. This is quite enough for my construction needs.

At one time, the crane, with a boom reach of 5 m, lifts 10 blocks weighing 15 kg each, or four 15-liter buckets of solution.

The design of the crane is a hodgepodge of what was at hand. Let's list the main details:

  • swivel unit - truck hub;

Hubs from cars, trucks, and farm equipment are often used to make the swivel assembly in homemade cranes. The main thing is to calculate the loads acting on it and the fasteners.

  • the boom is made of a pipe with a diameter of 75 mm;

  • outriggers and base - a rectangular pipe with a section of 8x5 and 8.5x5.5 cm;

  • the base of the tower is the “200th” channel;

  • worm gearboxes for boom and cargo winches.

  • three-phase electric motor with reverse, power 0.9 kW, converted to power from a 220 V network;

The crane turned out to be mobile, and by lowering the boom, it can be moved from place to place, rolling on wheels along compacted soil. Level adjustment is carried out using screw supports.

Metal, gearboxes and rollers were purchased at a recycled metal shop. Only the cable and bearings are new.

The weight of the crane without counterweight is about 250 kg. The cost of the structure, taking into account the purchase of consumables - cutting discs for angle grinders, electrodes for a welding inverter and paint, is 4 thousand rubles.

Peter 1

Crane, + time for turning, + selection of components and fitting of components, I completed it in 3 working days. In the future, after finishing the work, I will completely disassemble it.

Inexpensive mini lift

Practice shows that when building a private house, a real crane is not always needed. Often, a developer can get by with “little expense” and make a small lift based on an electrically driven hoist.

Gexx FORUMHOUSE Member

My design is simpler than the authors above, but it suits me quite well. I bought a hoist with a load capacity of 300 kg without a block and 600 kg with a block. Tests have shown that the device can lift a load weighing 250-270 kg, then the engine protection is triggered. During the construction season, I used it to lift about 40 pallets with building blocks, a 6-meter beam for the mauerlat, rafters, mortar for masonry and concrete for the reinforced belt.

The lift, again to save money, is made from used pipes, angles and channels.