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Do-it-yourself mount for the indoor unit of the air conditioner. Installing a split system: step-by-step instructions for self-installation. Video: connecting a window structure

Translated from English, the word split means “crack,” but there are other, less common translation options, namely “separation.” This article describes the installation of an air conditioner with your own hands, and specifically a split system, which consists of divided blocks. Since the installation of an air conditioning system itself is quite an expensive undertaking, it will be useful to find out how you can install it yourself.

Installing an air conditioning system is not an easy task. In order to connect everything correctly, you need to know how it all functions:

- through a die (a nozzle in the form of a narrow hole) a rapidly boiling liquid is poured under pressure into the evaporator chamber, used to cool the air - this is the refrigerant. In the chamber, the liquid expands, boils, evaporates and thereby consumes a large amount of warm air.

— water condensate accumulates on the evaporator heater during operation. It flows into a special tank, from which it goes outside (to the street) through a drainage tube.

- the compressor, like a vacuum pump, constantly pumps out refrigerant vapor from the evaporator chamber. High pressure causes the temperature of the refrigerant to rise to such an extent that it enters a supercritical state similar to a very dense fog.

- then the refrigerant passes into the condensation chamber, in which there is a heater blown by a fan. Under the cold air, the temperature of the refrigerant again changes critically, this time it cools and turns into a liquid.

- the liquid refrigerant again enters the evaporator through the nozzle and the cycle is constantly repeated.

What helps and what hinders the operation of the air conditioner

In order for the split system to function properly and at the same time save energy during installation, it is important to fulfill the following conditions:

- do not allow warm air to penetrate inside the equipment - when cold and hot zones come into contact, electricity consumption greatly increases. In this situation, the compressor is forced to distill heat inside the system, and this is an additional cost.

- maintain the tightness of the system - due to its depressurization, quickly boiling liquids can simply evaporate. This can happen even through the smallest hole.

- the external unit must be located lower than the internal one - this will create a thermosiphon effect (warm liquid rises), which makes the compressor work easier. If this is not done, then excessive consumption of electricity will inevitably occur, since the liquid will rise, overcoming the reverse thermosiphon effect.

- the external unit must be located in a cool place, in the shade - additional heating from the outside increases the energy consumption for cooling the system.

— the drainage tube should not be allowed to bend upward, since such convolutions are instantly populated by microbes and mold, and as a result become a source of infection.

What is an air split?

A split system differs from a conventional household air conditioner in that it consists of separated blocks. One of them is external, a compressor operates in it, and condensate is collected. The second block is internal, in which the thermostatic fluid evaporates. Many modern split systems not only cool the air in the room, but also heat it to the required temperature. When the air is heated, the cycle works in reverse, and the refrigerant condenses in the indoor unit, while evaporation occurs in the outdoor unit. For this reason, in general, blocks are simply referred to as external (external) and internal.

It also happens that several internal units work with one external unit. At the same time, they can work separately, both cooling and heating the air. But this occurs only in expensive models of split systems. Although such air conditioning systems are expensive, they are more economical in operation than their cheaper counterparts. This happens because in such a situation, heat exchange inside the room does not interfere, but helps the air conditioner to work.

When to install an air conditioner

It would be better to install a split system in a house during the renovation period. There is a lot of work to be done to replace and install electrical wiring. It’s good that the wall finishing is not yet completed before installation begins. Otherwise, there will be costs associated with re-finishing the interior.

Required Tools

In order for the installation of the split system to proceed without delays, and after several days the equipment does not fail, it is necessary to use high-quality tools during the work. For installation you will need:

- a hammer drill with a set of chisels - you have to make holes in the wall with a diameter of up to 10 centimeters.

- reinforcement detector (if the wall is made of reinforced concrete) - if the hammer drill hits the reinforcement, the hole will have to be punched again.

- pipe cutter - only they need to cut pipes. If you cut the refrigerant pipes with a simple hacksaw, then there will certainly be particles of metal shavings along the edges, which will lead to compressor malfunction.

- a set for flaring tubes - if you try to bend the edges of the tube with improvised tools, you will not be able to achieve complete symmetry.

— scraping is a tool that is used to strip the ends of tubes. Files are not suitable for these purposes due to the risk of small particles getting inside the compressor.

- hand pump (bicycle) - it is useful for checking the system for leaks.

- vacuum pump - used to create a vacuum in the system before filling it. Many experts advise simply flushing with refrigerant, but this does not remove residual moisture, and as a result the compressor may be damaged, similar to the situation with metal shavings.

- phase indicator and tester - these devices will be useful when replacing electrical wiring.

- pressure gauge.

— pipeline.

Selecting the required tubes

For safety reasons, the best solution is to purchase a whole coil of copper tubing. This is justified, since small chips may remain in the cut tube, which during operation can damage the compressor. In addition, it is necessary to ensure that the edges of the tube have factory flaring, and that there are no cracks, creases or other defects on the tube. Using a long pipeline, you can lower the outdoor unit much lower than the indoor unit. In this case, the excess consumption of material will quickly pay for itself, since the resulting thermosiphon effect will reduce the energy consumption of the equipment.

Trimming, cleaning and shaping tubes

Before installing the air conditioner, it is necessary to do a test flaring, scraping and cutting of the tube. A special tool is used for flaring; before work, you need to carefully inspect and study its structure, possible defects during use, and know what the end result looks like. When purchasing a whole coil, it is best to purchase a small piece of trim for trial work, since it is not recommended to cut the coil for these purposes. The pipe is cut using a circular motion of the pipe cutter. Next, you need to do a scraping, in which the tube should be with the end down so that the tube scraps do not fall into the lumen and inside.

Installation of the external unit

Independent installation of an air conditioner in an apartment on floors above the second, namely an external unit, is considered life-threatening and impractical. On the upper floors, installation can only be done if there is a balcony or loggias. The external unit is easily and conveniently installed on the balcony on small and shallow brackets. A balcony is generally a convenient place to install an air conditioner, because it has north or east sides, which are simply ideal for installation. But even in the south, installing a split system is not so scary, since a roof or canopy will protect the external unit from overheating under the scorching sun even on the hottest day. It is on such a day that the operation of the air conditioner is very important.

Before installing the brackets, it is necessary to remove the glass for the installation period and drive the holders themselves into the lower part of the frame. In order not to spoil the lining of the loggia, you can bend the “roots” of the holders in the form of the letters “P” located horizontally.

Installation of a split system

Professional installation of a split system in a house takes place in a strict sequence:

- choosing a location for the indoor unit,
- installation and replacement of electrical wiring,
— installation of the external unit,
- making a hole in the wall for the pipes,
— laying a pipeline,
— electrical installation of connections in blocks,
- checking the tightness of the air conditioner,
— vacuuming the system,
- filling the system,
- power connection,
— test run of the system sleeping,
— insulation of interblock harnesses,
— capital sealing of holes,
- pleasant to use.

Some important stages of installing a split system are discussed in more detail below.

Selecting the location of indoor units

There are a number of places where the indoor unit of a split system cannot be installed:

— above heating devices;

- where there is no air access - behind curtains, partitions, screens and other seemingly insignificant obstacles;

- in rooms where there is equipment that causes electrical interference: workshops with power tools, kitchens with induction and microwave ovens, electric ovens. If this is neglected, the radiation will damage the unit’s processor.

Attention! There is no air conditioning in the kitchen. Cooling of air and the influx of new air occurs due to the house’s own general ventilation.

Electrical wiring features

The power of the smallest air conditioner is 1.5 kW. For this reason, it is simply necessary to lay a separate cable for the air conditioning system with a cable thickness of at least 2.5 square meters. mm. In addition, it is important to install a machine that can turn off the electricity in case of overload.

When connecting wires to the power panel, you need to connect the yellow wire with a green stripe along its entire length to N (neutral wire). Using the phase indicator, you need to determine the phase and zero.

How to drill holes in a wall

It is important to correctly determine the position of the reinforcement in the wall. If the fittings are hit, nothing can be done. You'll have to drill a new hole. Damage to reinforcement is unacceptable, as this is contrary to building codes. In addition to the situation described, there is one more point. For this stage, a second person will be required who will warn people passing below about the possible fall of pieces of concrete or brick. This cannot be ignored, because if a random piece of debris falls on a person, the consequences can be very serious, including imprisonment.

The hole must be made with a diameter of more than 80 mm. The advice you come across about 50-60 mm most likely does not take thermal insulation into account.

Installation of tubes

First you need to cut the tube to the required length with a margin of about one meter. Then you can start bending the pipeline. This is done very carefully so that no breaks or wrinkles occur. The bend of the tube must correspond to a radius of 100 mm or no less. If wrinkles occur, they will create unnecessary resistance to the coolant and, as a result, increase energy consumption.

The next step is the thermal insulation of the tube. To do this, a hose made of polyurethane foam (flex) is put on it. There is no point in using other insulation materials, since they are short-lived and will become unusable after a season.

After this, it is necessary to put flanges on the tubes with threads to the ends of the tube and make flaring.

Next, we connect the tubes one by one to the existing fittings. At this stage, you need to be careful and make sure that the cold fitting of the indoor unit is not connected to the hot fitting of the outdoor unit. Sometimes the cold and hot fittings have different diameters.

The nuts on the fittings must be tightened securely, but not too tightly, because the nuts will need to be tightened to a control level when sealing.

A piece of reinforced plastic tubing can be used as drainage. It is connected to the drain pipe or with a threaded nut. A piece of heat-shrinkable tubing may also help. It is easily heated by a soldering iron, slightly touching the tube with the tip.

How to properly connect an air conditioner to the electrical network

To connect the blocks you will need multi-core insulated wires with a thickness of 2.5 square meters. mm. They connect the terminals of the blocks (indoor and outdoor), most often the terminals are the same. If the names of the terminals are different, then you need to study the instructions in detail and get advice from a specialist. All wires, by analogy with tubes, are passed through previously made holes in the wall.

Sealing

To carry out sealing, a soap solution is used. To do this, you need to purchase distilled water at the pharmacy and heat it to steam. Then, stirring gently, you need to dissolve a tablespoon of chopped laundry soap in it.

Two people should work here. You need to remove the outlet nipple and attach a rubber hose from a bicycle pump to its nipple. An assistant carefully pumps air, another one applies a soap solution with a brush to all threaded connections.

Then tighten the nuts until bubbles stop completely, plus 1/8 turn from above. Soap deposits are removed with a damp cloth.

Vacuum cleaning process

The next step is the vacuum process. It is necessary for the system to be cleared of dust and moisture, which are removed along with the air. To do this, the nipple is screwed into place and a vacuum pump is connected to it. It must be tightened tightly. Then you need to pump air for an hour. As a result, all residual moisture will evaporate.

Filling the system

It's time for the refrigerant to fill the system. To do this, a cylinder with coolant is connected to the system through an adapter with a pressure gauge. It should be filled until the pressure specified in the documentation is reached.

Important! Air conditioners that run on freon are prohibited from being filled with refrigerant and vice versa.

Test activation

When you turn on the machine, the split system should enter test mode on its own. If this does not happen, then you need to run the test from the remote control. If it doesn’t work this time, it means that the installation was done incorrectly and, in order not to permanently damage the equipment, you need to call a specialist.

Finishing touches

If the test switching was successful, the blinds are installed in the correct position and begin to sway. The harness located between the blocks on top must be wrapped with aluminum foil. This will serve as a heat shield, saving up to 3% of electricity. The second layer of the harness together with the drainage tube is wrapped with moisture-resistant insulating tape. The final touch is to completely seal the hole in the wall. There is no need to do this with foam. On this we can sum up the decisive conclusion that the split system was installed independently and is working properly.

Video on the topic “How to install an air conditioner yourself”

Installing an air conditioner in a residential area has its own characteristics. In order for this climate control equipment to work most efficiently, it is important to carry out the installation correctly. Not less important suitable power. The main parameter for calculations is room volume. But the side of the world that the windows face also matters. So, if it is south, the room will be a priori warmer than a room of similar size, but with windows facing north. Therefore, you should choose a device that is 30% more powerful. A low-power air conditioner, even if installed correctly, will not be able to fully cope with the function assigned to it.

Where to start?

So, there is a suitable air conditioner. What's next?

  • selection of installation time;
  • choice of installation location;
  • choosing an installation method.

Most often, split systems are installed in apartments, consisting of an internal (evaporator) and external (condenser) units. They are connected to each other by a tube containing wires and freon. Recently, devices with two indoor units operating independently of each other have become popular - this makes it easier to install an air conditioning system in adjacent rooms.

The optimal time to install an air conditioner is not spring or summer, but during repairs.

It is necessary to draw a separate line from the electrical wiring panel for the air conditioner, and if this is done during the repair process, the wires can be successfully disguised. And preparing the hole for the freon tube is literally dusty work. Therefore, if there are repairs in the near future, it is better to wait to install the air conditioner.

How to properly install an external unit

Installation of an air conditioner always begins with the installation of a condenser. Based on the weight of the external unit, brackets that can withstand such a load are selected. The brackets must be attached not to the insulation or sheathing of the house, but directly to the wall - a solid foundation.

To protect the device from precipitation, it is recommended to cover it with a visor. This is not necessary, but such a measure will extend the functionality of the device. If the air conditioner is located on one of the first two floors, it would be a good idea to make a metal cage for it - this will protect the device from theft.

According to the rules for installing this type of climate control equipment, the drainage pipe coming from the external unit must be discharged into the sewer.

Placing an external unit under a window

In practice, in our houses, especially multi-story ones, this is impossible, so the pipes are left hanging freely. But the sound of dripping condensation may not please neighbors living below. And this is natural - the knocking of drops on the windowsill only becomes more distracting and annoying over time. If you want to maintain good relations with your neighbors (as well as your nerves, which may go into figuring out who is right), it is worth considering this moment.

Installing an external air conditioner unit on the balcony

The best solution is to lengthen the drainage tube so that drops from it fall along the wall along a line where there are no window openings or balcony structures. Don't forget about the alternative option - application.

Where is the best place to place the indoor unit?

The distance between the blocks is directly proportional to the power loss of the device. Therefore, the shorter the distance, the more efficient the air conditioner is.

It is for this reason that it is preferable to install the indoor unit on the same wall as the external one, or as close as possible to it.

It is important to remember that air conditioners:

Sometimes the most convenient option seems to be to place the air conditioner above the cabinet - no one will see it there. But, firstly, this will interfere with the normal operation of the device, and secondly, every time you start the air conditioner, all the dust from the surface will be swept down, and people will breathe it. Therefore, this option is not as good as it seems at first glance.

Important so that free access to the indoor unit of the air conditioner is provided. This will not only ensure higher performance, but will also allow you to clean the device in a timely manner.

Sometimes they try to mark the indoor unit behind curtains or lambrequins so as not to attract undue attention. Of course, it may not suit the sophisticated interior design, but such camouflage prevents productive air cooling.

It is better to spend a little more time choosing an air conditioner and find a model whose evaporator will be in harmony with the interior.

Protective screen-reflector for air conditioning - prevents direct contact of cold air with a person

Modern manufacturers offer various options - from laconic classics to very bold solutions, right up to, so your search is sure to be crowned with success.

How to install the indoor unit

Actually, the principle of its installation is similar to the principle of installing an external unit. First, a suitable location is selected, then brackets are attached to the wall, and the evaporator itself is installed on them. The only difference is that before installing the indoor unit, a hole is prepared for the freon tube.

After this, the indoor and outdoor units are connected and the air conditioner is connected to the network. The fewer bends the tube has, the more efficiently air is removed, which means the more productive the device is.

Advice. Upon completion of installation, be sure to check the air conditioner for functionality.

For this, there are special test programs that allow you to determine whether the system is installed correctly.

Is it worth doing the installation yourself?

The principle of installing an air conditioner is generally simple, but the details are very important. So, it is necessary that both blocks are installed evenly - without distortions. Otherwise, condensation may accumulate and, as a result, rapid breakdown of the device.

In addition, some companies provide a broader warranty if the installation is performed by a qualified specialist, which is understandable: this eliminates all doubts about improper installation as the likely cause of unit failure. However, the instructions for any air conditioner include a detailed description of exactly how this device should be installed. Therefore, if there is an irresistible desire to do the work yourself, this is quite possible.

True, it may be difficult to find a tool to install the brackets and drill a hole for the freon tube. And on floors above the first it is not so easy to install an external unit: insurance is required. Specialists will not have any problems with this - all the equipment is included, they know how to use it, and do it quickly and efficiently.

- this is real, but entrusting the installation to specialists is more effective.

A properly installed air conditioner does not make any extraneous sounds. It only requires preventive cleaning once or twice a year - in spring or spring and autumn, depending on the intensity of use, as well as refilling with freon once every two years.

For many, air conditioning at home has become simply indispensable. It creates a comfortable indoor microclimate when it is hot outside. But this is only possible if it is installed correctly.

Any air conditioner consists of two parts with different functions: a refrigeration circuit, which performs the function of cooling the air, and an electrical part, which controls the devices and elements of the circuit.

This article will look at the electrical circuit of the air conditioner, options for connecting it to the power supply, and how to properly connect the air conditioner to the power supply.

What is the electrical diagram of a split system

An air conditioner electrical diagram is a document that displays the location of electronic components, their connections, as well as information for service center engineers. Anyone who is interested is more interested in the electrical connection diagram of the air conditioner, which includes the location of the main devices of the evaporative and condenser units, terminals for connecting the units to each other and connecting the power supply.

The main elements here are:

  • Compressor, with CSR terminals. The arrow shows the protection installed on the compressor winding
  • Compressorcapacitor - a capacitor with two terminals connected to the windings of the compressor unit. The third terminal of the capacitor is connected to its starting winding.
  • In addition, the diagram shows a fan motor and a capacitor through which two windings of the electric motor are connected.
  • The diagram shows an electromagnet that controls the operation of a four-way valve.

Terminal designations in the terminal block:

1(N) – zero.

3 – Supply power to the fan motor when operating at low speeds.

4 – Power supply to the fan motor when it operates at high speeds.

A separate terminal is ground.
Main modules and blocks:

  • Power filter through which voltage is supplied to the control board.
  • Control board – control unit to which all device modules are connected.
  • A compressor power relay is connected to CN 12.
  • A drain pump is connected to CN6.
  • Terminal block CN 5 is responsible for controlling the fan of the split system.
  • A stepper motor for controlling the blinds is connected to the CN 10 pins.
  • CN 7 terminals are responsible for connecting the heat exchanger temperature sensor.
  • A room temperature sensor is connected to pins 1 and 2 of terminal block CN15.
  • A water level sensor in the pan is connected to pins 1 and 3 of terminal block CN15.
  • Terminal block CN 13 of the control unit is responsible for connecting the device display unit.

Terminal block (labeled Terminal on the board) for connecting the evaporative and condenser units with a cable. Terminals L and N - power supply of the air conditioner from the electric line. transmission You should know that there is an option to connect the air conditioner to the mains via an external unit.

With this connection, you must follow the instructions. If climate control equipment with a power of up to 4.5 kW is connected, then a four-core copper cable with a cross-section of 2.5 mm 2 must be used. With a separate power supply branch, a 20 A circuit breaker must be installed on the panel.

Air conditioner connection

Afterwards, they must be connected to each other with a four-core copper cable with a core cross-sectional area of ​​at least 2.5 mm 2. The connection instructions are provided in the schematic diagram, which was discussed in some detail above. The connecting cable can be laid together with the freon line, or maybe in a separate plastic box.

When laying in the same groove together with copper pipes, use a corrugated plastic tube to insulate the cable.

After the inter-unit electrical connection, the indoor unit should be connected to the power supply. The connection diagram for the air conditioner to the electrical network involves receiving power both from the nearest outlet and from a separate line.

The ideal option for connecting sufficiently powerful climate control equipment is a separate power line. This option will not load the existing lines of the apartment electrical system and will allow power to be supplied directly to the internal unit of the split system. The power supply cable can be laid from the panel to the indoor unit using a groove in the wall material or in a special plastic box.

The shield from which the separate power line will be drawn must be grounded. The connection of the power cable to the terminal block of the panel must be carried out only through an automatic machine, the power of which should be calculated using the formula: the power of the device divided by the voltage. 30% of the reserve should be added to the resulting value.

It should be understood that the power cable for air conditioning equipment can be connected to the outlet only if:

  • Climate control equipment has low power.
  • The in-house electrical network is laid with a copper cable with a cross-section of at least 2.5 mm 2.
  • There are no energy-intensive consumers on the same branch with the air conditioner.
  • Supposed to be temporary.
  • This power supply branch is equipped with a circuit breaker with an RCD of at least 20 A.

Options for connecting an air conditioner to an existing power line

This issue could not be considered, due to the presence of sockets in the room. But, some owners of low-power climate control equipment are dissatisfied with the stretching wire from the outlet to the consumer, often across the entire wall.

If the outlet is located far enough from the air conditioner, then there is an option to connect the air conditioner to the mains via a switch. We warn you right away: this option is only suitable for low-power climate control equipment and here’s why: the terminals of a conventional switch may simply not withstand the current passing through them. The result is heating, sparking, failure of the switch (at best) or fire.

It is better to cut a groove in the wall from an existing outlet and lay a power cable along it in a corrugated pipe to the split system unit, and then install a special outlet with a decorative cover into the wall. The socket must withstand a certain current: if the power is 1 kW, then the socket must withstand 9-10 A; from 1 to 3 kW – 16-18 A; from 3 to 4.6 kW – 20 A; from 4.6 to 5.5 - at least 25 A. It is best to entrust the correct choice to a qualified electrician.

If you decide to connect the air conditioner yourself, then do it in compliance with all safety regulations, and in order to be completely sure that the connection process was completed correctly and safely for the climate control equipment and the inhabitants of the home, it is best to seek help from professionals.

This article will talk about how to install an air conditioner with your own hands. Experts strongly recommend preparing the climate control device for intensive use in advance. Installation of air conditioners is a responsible and quite complex undertaking from a technical point of view. With a certain desire, practical skills and theoretical basis, installation work can be done with your own hands.

The efficiency and duration of operation of the split system depend on how accurately the installation rules are followed. An unsuitable location, incorrectly selected equipment for installation, its non-compliance with technical operating conditions, violation of technology - all this can ultimately lead to breakdown of the unit. And even the most expensive devices fail without revealing their potential.

It will not be possible to competently organize the entire process if you do not have an idea of ​​​​the operating principle of this climate control device.

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    Operating principle of the unit

    All models of split systems on sale are built and function according to the same principle. They consist of a compressor and evaporator unit. Special tubes are used to connect them. The external unit is installed outside the wall.

    Unit design

    An evaporator is installed indoors. More productive and expensive models are equipped with several with a common compressor.

    The principle of operation of a home air conditioner:

    1. 1. Refrigerant (freon) is supplied under high pressure through a nozzle whose diameter corresponds to the outlet pipes.
    2. 2. It is sent to the inside of the evaporator, where it gradually expands, and after some time it completely boils. The generated steam actively absorbs heat.
    3. 3. During the absorption process, condensate in the form of water is certainly released, settling on the surface of the radiator.
    4. 4. Moisture is transferred to a reservoir and then discharged behind the walls of the house.

    If the installation of the air conditioner is carried out professionally and correctly, the compressor will constantly pump out freon vapor from the internal chamber, while at the same time the internal pressure increases. As a result, the refrigerant heats up, which helps convert it into dense fog.

    The refrigerant is redirected to the condensation chamber, where it is cooled by an integrated fan, transforming into liquid. In this state, it is sent to the evaporator (through the nozzle) and everything closes in a circle.

    note! If you install an air conditioner inside a room near a heating device, then the energy consumption will increase significantly, and the device itself is highly likely to fail after just a few months of operation..

    Even ordinary dust can cause damage to the climate control unit. Wet cleaning is not only necessary, but also prescribed, and thorough, regular and thorough. It is strictly forbidden to place any products or objects on the block itself indoors. It is also impossible to cover it with a tablecloth.

    Scheme of work

    Installing an air conditioner yourself requires sealing all connecting elements and joints, which will eliminate the likelihood of refrigerant evaporation. Experts recommend placing the outdoor unit so that it is lower in level than the indoor unit. Standard installation of an air conditioner involves placing the outdoor unit in a cool place, in the shade.

    The design and principle of operation of the air conditioner

    Tools and preparations

    It is impossible to install an air conditioner yourself without first preparing the tools:

    • electrical tester;
    • bicycle and vacuum pumps;
    • pipe cutter;
    • perforator;
    • indicator;
    • example;
    • pipe flaring kit.

    Required tools for installation

    This is just a basic set of components necessary for installing air conditioners. Additionally, you will need a full coil of copper tube (note that its ends must be rolled initially at the factory). Any visual defects (dents, scratches) are simply not acceptable.

    note! Installation of air conditioning systems is impossible without making holes in the walls and damaging the exterior and interior finishes, so the work should be carried out in parallel with the repair.

    Step-by-step instructions for installing the climate system

    After purchasing a climate control unit and preparing the necessary tools, you can begin the main pool of work. The installation diagram is quite simple:

    • choosing a location to install the unit.
    • installation of brackets on which the unit will be installed.
    • Initially, the external (outdoor) unit of the unit is installed.
    • then the indoor unit and other elements of the system are installed inside the facility.

    note! In the process of performing the relevant work, it is extremely important to strictly observe safety standards, especially if we are talking about a height of 2-3 floors. Knowing how to install an air conditioner yourself should not go against safety precautions.

    Choosing a location for installing the unit is no less important than purchasing the air conditioning device itself. Experts advise taking into account a number of requirements when choosing a place for the indoor unit:

    • distance from the side wall – from 30 cm;
    • distance from the ceiling – at least 15 cm;
    • to the nearest large object that disrupts the movement of air masses - from 150 cm.

    Unit placement options

    As for the placement of the outdoor unit, a balcony is considered the ideal place, but provided that it is open. In the case of a glazed loggia, you can choose the option of mounting it on a fence, if the load-bearing capacity of this structure is sufficient. For residents of the first and second floors, we recommend placing this part of the split system above the window so as not to cause inconvenience and reduce the likelihood of theft.

    note! In the case of a private house, no strict recommendations are provided.

    Choosing a place for the unit

    If there are several air conditioner units, then the minimum distance between them should be at least 1.5 m, optimally 3 m. A number of manufacturers do not regulate this value and you can select it yourself. But it is better to refuse the “sandwich” option, in which adjacent blocks are placed back to back.

    The distance between 2 blocks indoors is from 6 m. More is allowed, but in this case, refilling with refrigerant cannot be avoided. It is better to invest in the specified value.

    Where to install the air conditioner

    Installation of brackets for air conditioning

    Brackets for installing the unit

    So, where is the best place to install an air conditioner? – The climate control unit is fixed in an area of ​​unobstructed access. Installing an air conditioner on the balcony is the best option. This type of equipment requires periodic and high-quality maintenance.

    Experts strongly recommend placing the outdoor unit on the north or east side. Installation of a window air conditioner is often performed at the bottom of the balcony. This zone is considered the best because it allows you to easily open the window and service the unit. The sequence of actions is simple:

    1. 1. The places where the brackets are fixed are indicated and marked using a level.
    2. 2. Holes are formed for the anchor bolts.
    3. 3. For communications, it is necessary to prepare a through hole; its diameter must be at least 8 cm. It is better to make mounting recesses and recesses in the space between adjacent bricks; this will not only simplify the work, but also make it visually neater.

    Bracket sizes

    The brackets are installed in accordance with the preliminary markings, adjusting them according to the level and screwing in the anchor bolts. It is necessary to pay attention to the fact that there should be about 10 cm of free space between the base of the wall and the climate control unit. Gaps must be carefully sealed. Having ensured that this block is securely fastened, the installation stages continue, but this time inside the room.

    ATTENTION! Don't skimp on brackets.

    Brackets for air conditioners. What is the difference?

    Mounting the outdoor unit

    When starting to attach the outdoor unit, you need to make sure of the structural reliability and strength of the wall. Large models can weigh more than 50 kg, and in some cases more. Household air conditioning units weigh about 15 kg, and there are no problems with their fastening. Experts advise ensuring a safety margin for all fasteners and walls of at least 2 times.

    Advice! If your house has external insulation, you should make sure that the brackets are not fixed to it, but to the wall itself.

    In recent years, a material such as aerated concrete has become particularly popular in the private development segment. With all its positive qualities, it is not able to provide sufficient strength for installing an air conditioner. The issue is similar with a ventilated façade.

    note! During the installation process, it is extremely important to ensure a horizontal level for the product; in this case, you can use a building level. The slightest deviations can result in improper circulation of the refrigerant.

    Correct mounting of the outdoor unit

    • the outdoor unit of the air conditioner should be blown by the wind from all sides (if possible);
    • it is better to place the body under a canopy;
    • residents of the upper floors of apartment buildings can place them directly on the roof;
    • the maximum length of the main line is 15 m; if this value is exceeded, then cold losses increase.

    Professionals pay close attention to the proper arrangement of drainage for condensate drainage. According to the rules and regulations, this pipe must be connected to the sewer system. But the overwhelming majority of our compatriots neglect it, completely in vain.

    The outdoor unit should be at a distance of 10 cm from the wall surface. It is required to ensure high-quality airflow of the unit. If you do not withstand it, the device may completely fail. Remember that any activities related to the installation of an outdoor unit are associated with a high health hazard, since this is work at height.

    Attaching the indoor unit

    Professionals strictly prohibit placing the indoor unit behind curtains, near electrical appliances, or above a battery. Self-installation of an air conditioner in these places can result in failure of the device’s processor. Having decided on the location, it is imperative to check the wall for the presence of other communication solutions (heating pipes, water supply, electrical wiring).

    Attaching the indoor unit

    Direct installation of a window air conditioner is possible only if there is free space. First of all, a metal plate is mounted: at least 10 cm must be removed from the ceiling, and about 7 cm from the base of the wall. The distances are marked with a pencil. Holes are made for fastening, and the plate is securely screwed.

    Fixed plate for indoor unit

    The further installation scheme involves fixing the indoor unit on an already attached plate. A parallel hole is made in the wall for laying copper cables, condensate hoses, pipes, and electrical wiring. Standard includes all necessary products, solutions and elements.

    Electrical connection

    Electrical connection diagram

    The indoor unit operates only if it has its own wiring, the cross-section of which must be at least 1.5 square meters. mm. A mandatory requirement is the presence of a circuit breaker, especially if this is the installation of industrial air conditioners. The wiring is connected to the panel only when it is completely laid: a yellow wire with a small green stripe is connected to the neutral wire.

    note! In order to determine phase and zero, it is most effective to use an indicator.

    The rules for installing an air conditioner require connecting individual units using insulated stranded wires, previously passed through a hole in the wall. Each climate control unit comes with instructions that clearly indicate the wiring diagram and sequence.

    When answering the question of how to properly install an air conditioner, professionals invariably state that the key to the success of this entire event depends on the quality and skill of laying copper pipes. They are cut in such a way that there is a small margin (about 0.8-1 m) for bends.

    Pipe laying

    It is not possible to simply bend them, since dents and wrinkles will form, and the metal may even crack.

    note! Installation of industrial air conditioners, like domestic ones, requires the use of special pipe benders. They help maintain the structural integrity of the tubes. For window air conditioners, this point is the key to effective operation.

    Only after this can the tubes be covered with polyurethane foam hoses, which act as thermal insulation. As for traditional foam rubber, it is completely unsuitable in this context due to its short service life. Thread flanges are installed exclusively after insulation of pipes.

    Installation and installation of air conditioners is carried out with mandatory flaring, while the process itself requires extreme care in order to eliminate the danger of the formation of grooves and microcracks. Be that as it may, spare parts and necessary tools should always be at hand. When rolling, the nut should be placed easily, but when tightening it is better to use a torque wrench, which eliminates the possibility of squeezing out small particles from the treated area.

    Next, it is enough to fix the corresponding pipeline at each fitting. A small piece of pipe in a reinforced casing is attached to the drain pipe (for such cases it is better to use heat-shrinkable tubes).

    Advice! An important component of successful installation of an air conditioner at home is the presence of a drainage pipe located at the maximum possible distance from the load-bearing walls.

    The next step is to insert pipes into the holes in the wall, and they should be placed as evenly as possible. At the wall, the canvas is fixed with clamps. An air conditioner installed outside the home must be mounted extremely securely. Small holes are filled with polyurethane foam. To check the tightness, you can use a soap solution.

    Evacuating the system

    To install air conditioners, it is necessary to evacuate the system. Even if the activities are carried out at home, this cannot be avoided, since moisture and fine dust are removed as part of vacuuming. During the installation of the air conditioner, the connections and threads are sealed, otherwise it will not be possible to remove air from the unit. A vacuum pump is used to pump out air for 20-40 minutes.

    Vacuuming

    After the installation of the air conditioner is completed, the refrigerant contained in the cylinder is supplied to the system. A small adapter is attached to it, and then a pressure gauge. The air conditioner reservoir is filled independently, taking into account and adjusting for pressure. Upon completion of the process, the circuit breaker is activated and the system enters test mode.

    note! Uniform circulation of cold air indicates that everything was done correctly. The climate control unit can be used for its intended purpose.

    Results

    Now you know how to install an air conditioner yourself. This work is quite feasible. Naturally, we are not talking about a simple and easy task. The key recommendation is to strictly follow the instructions and if any defects occur, they must be corrected in a timely manner. In this case, the air conditioner will work effectively for a long time. Be sure to watch the video on installing an air conditioner from A to Z.

Compared to other air conditioning devices, the split system has a more complex two-block design. This system consists of an external compressor-condenser module and an internal evaporator module with a corresponding number of communications through which freon and electricity are supplied and condensate is discharged. This scheme complicates installation, but does not exclude self-installation. To install such an air conditioner yourself, just read the instructions, make up for the lack of knowledge and experience through Internet resources, and consult with specialists.

Installation features depend on the design of the indoor module, which can be wall-mounted or floor-mounted. To save space, small apartments usually use a wall-mounted air conditioner. This split is somewhat more difficult to install due to the need for durable wall mounting. But regardless of the details, the work is carried out in the following sequence:

  1. installation of separate wiring;
  2. installation of an external condenser unit;
  3. fastening the evaporator (indoor unit);
  4. connection of communications with vacuum;
  5. test activation.

Tools

To install the split yourself you will need a tool. It is recommended to include in the set:

  • a drill with a hammer drill and a corresponding set of drills that is capable of breaking through a solid concrete wall;
  • pipe cutter for neatly cutting pipes without the threat of clogging with copper shavings;
  • a kit for flaring the edges of tubes, which will ensure the tightness of the connections;
  • an example that can be used to strip the ends of connections;
  • a pump, possibly a bicycle pump, to assess the tightness;
  • vacuum cleaner, to remove moisture from the system by vacuuming;
  • indicator screwdriver and tester for wiring;
  • pressure gauge for pressure control.

How to choose a place

Before installing split system modules, it is necessary to correctly determine their location. For the external unit, the space should be:

  • protect the device from direct sunlight and exposure to dust;
  • guarantee the stability of the structure;
  • provide sufficient free space for normal operation of the device.

Here such a situation is excluded, and the necessary protection of the unit is provided by the visor. An additional advantage is ease of maintenance. When choosing a location for the compressor you need to:

  • provide protection from sun or heating;
  • eliminate the threat of ignition of various vapors and gas leaks;
  • provide the required free space and distance from the floor around the perimeter of the block as required by the instructions;
  • prevent interference from constantly operating electrical appliances (distance of at least a meter);
  • guarantee the strength of the wall, preventing the structure from collapsing.

Installation of separate wiring

A split system, even in its most low-power version, requires at least 1.5 kW. Such power requires a separate line, unloaded by other consumers, especially in houses earlier than 1990.

It requires:

  • two-core wire with a cross-section of 1.5 to 2 mm, always copper;
  • 16A circuit breaker.

If you plan to hide the wiring in a groove, then you should take care of this during the renovation so as not to spoil the expensive interior of the renovated apartment. When the idea to install a split came after a renovation, the solution may be to install additional wiring in the box. In any case, this will allow:

  • avoid overloads;
  • prevent device failure;
  • eliminate the possibility of fire as a result of a short circuit.

Installing an external condenser unit

The complexity of this stage depends on the location where you decide to place the air conditioner. Three options can be used:

  • on the open balcony;
  • on the loggia;
  • on the wall.

On the balcony, it is enough to install short brackets and place the module on them. The protection function will be performed by a standard balcony canopy.

When choosing a loggia, you can limit yourself to the same brackets, but you should remember that a closed space does not provide the necessary air circulation, which will damage the air conditioner.

Open doors will help avoid this, which reduces the value of the loggia, especially in winter. It is impossible to mount the module on the wall without reinforced brackets, which must confidently support a weight several times greater than the mass of the unit itself. To attach them, it is better to use long anchors with a diameter of 20 mm.

Mounting the evaporator and installing communications

Before installing it, you need to mark the mounting locations. Check them horizontally and vertically using a level. After this, the work is performed in the following order:

  1. Holes are drilled according to the markings and anchors are inserted.
  2. The mounting plate is secured with screws;
  3. In accordance with the position of the block, a hole is punched for communications (50 - 80 mm) with a slight slope outward for drainage.
  4. A waterproofing cup with a tube is mounted in the holes.
  5. a check is made to ensure that the wire is connected correctly to the terminals in accordance with the diagram.
  6. Tubes with thermal insulation made of flex and drainage are connected to the corresponding pipes.
  7. If it is necessary to lengthen the edges of the tubes with the nuts on, they are first flared.
  8. A compact bundle (route) is formed from tubes, drainage and wires using electrical tape, which is passed through the hole to the outside.
  9. The indoor unit is hung on a mounting plate.

Having completed the above work, you can install the external unit on the previously fixed brackets and lead the route to it. Excessive force should be avoided when bending the tubes to avoid deformation and wrinkles (the permissible bending radius is at least 100 mm). If the air conditioner hangs over the sidewalk, then it is necessary to take care of alternative options for discharging condensate indoors.

Sealing and vacuuming

It is impossible to install a split correctly without sealing and vacuuming the communications. Sealing of connections is carried out using a soap solution and a conventional bicycle pump. The solution is applied to the connections and the tubes are pumped using a pump. When bubbles appear, carefully tighten the nuts by 1/8. The procedure is performed until the bubbling stops.

Then vacuuming is performed, which removes air, dust and remaining moisture. For this:

  • open several running ports;
  • connect the vacuum pump through the service port;
  • turn it on and wait for a pressure of 10 mmHg;
  • close the low pressure lever;
  • turn off the pump, return plugs to all open ports.

Testing

Before checking, fill the split with freon or refrigerant, depending on the requirements of the instructions, to the specified pressure. Testing is activated using a circuit breaker. If installation is performed correctly, the air conditioner will automatically enter test mode. Its result should be:

  • normal flow of cold air;
  • correct position of the blinds;
  • condensate drainage through drainage.

If all the signs are present, the split can be used every day. Otherwise, you will need to contact specialists. In this case, the warranty for the air conditioner will be lost.

So it is still not recommended to install such an air conditioner yourself. It’s better to immediately weigh your strengths and think about inviting a specialist.