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How to install laminate flooring step by step. How to lay laminate with your own hands: methods and schemes. On concrete floor with underlay

Laminate is considered to be a reliable, beautiful and high-quality material that produces an attractive and durable flooring. Often, homeowners prefer to do the finishing work on their own, but you need to know how to lay the laminate with your own hands, step-by-step instructions for all the work are presented below. This work can be performed throughout the apartment or in one room. It is allowed to lay the laminate on a concrete floor or other types of base, previously properly prepared for this. It is not difficult to lay a laminate on your own, but it is important to carefully study all the nuances of the process in advance in order to prevent mistakes that are simply impossible to correct.

It is impossible to single out any clear and strict rules for choosing the method of laying the material; it is laid by any method preferred by the owner of the premises. The property owner must take into account his preferences, it is important to assess in advance the features of the premises intended for the work.

Different laying of laminate with your own hands, the step-by-step video instructions of which are presented below, can be performed in the following ways:

  • along the room - in another way, this method is called in the direction of the light coming from the window. This technology of laying laminate is a classic. In the course of work all material is used as much as possible therefore the remains are minimized. This laminate laying scheme assumes the installation of each panel in one direction. Due to the direction of natural light from the window, an interesting type of coating is provided, in which the joints are practically invisible;
  • perpendicular to natural light - this laminate laying technology is considered the most in demand. Due to its use, a long coating period is guaranteed, as well as the laid laminated material withstands various mechanical influences well. Here, the joints are formed with an offset, however, the coating is laid in this way only in large rooms, since if this laminate laying technology is used in a small room, the space will visually decrease even more;
  • laying laminate diagonally - this work is considered the most difficult, so it is often impossible for a beginner to complete this process. This is due to the need to cut the first and last panel in each row at a specific angle. Therefore, laying the laminate diagonally is certainly accompanied by the appearance of a large number of residues.
Laminate laying patterns

Thus, the types of laying laminate have significant differences, so it is important to decide in advance how to properly lay the laminate. To do this, the features of the premises, the preferences of the owners, as well as the need to create a unique design are taken into account. It is possible to lay laminate along or across the room, and in which direction to lay the laminate is up to the worker. If you choose the right way to lay the laminate yourself, then the limited space visually increases or important defects are hidden. Therefore, it is impossible to say exactly how to lay the laminate correctly: along or across, since everything depends on the existing conditions.

Foundation Requirements

Before laying the laminate with your own hands, it is important to assess the condition and parameters of the existing base. In this case, there may be different types of bases that differ in characteristics and material of creation. The most common options are:

  • concrete base - most often there is a need to learn how to lay a laminate on a concrete floor. This process is considered quite simple, but the ideal evenness of the screed is considered an important point. Therefore, quite often you first have to pay attention to its alignment. Putting the laminate on the screed is allowed only after its final drying. If the old screed is even, then it is important to make sure that the base does not contain various defects, which include all kinds of cracks or chips. They must be removed before laying the laminate. Minor defects are eliminated by creating a thin coating of special self-leveling mixtures;
  • wooden base - it can be represented not only by boards, but also by other coatings. For example, many people wonder if it is possible to lay laminate on parquet. This work can only be carried out if the base is even, of high quality, dry and reliable. It is important to check the quality of the wooden base, as there should be no rotten boards or other significant problems. It is allowed to lay laminate in the apartment even on plywood or other wood-based panels. It is important to make sure that there are no creaking boards on the wooden base, as they must be replaced, and often the entire flooring has to be redone. Often you need to process the surface with a grinder;
  • laying laminate on video on other coatings - the question often arises whether it is possible to lay laminate on linoleum or on tiles and other coatings. It is allowed to perform this work, but the base must be even and reliable. Be sure to install a suitable substrate in advance. The tile should be not only even, but also with a complete absence of breakaway areas.

Most often you have to deal with a concrete base that does not have perfect evenness. In this case, laying the laminate with your own hands is only allowed after optimal alignment.
Concrete
Wooden
On linoleum
On the parquet
On tiles

Surface leveling

Laminate can only be laid down qualitatively on a perfectly flat floor. Therefore, it is often necessary to pre-perform certain actions related to leveling the base.

An unevenness of up to 2 mm per 2 sq m is allowed. If you lay the material with your own hands on a concrete floor with numerous irregularities, the coating will warp, so it will not last too long.

The very process of leveling the base in the room is considered not too complicated, and it is implemented taking into account the recommendations:

  • if there are cracks and seams, then they need to be expanded, after which they are completely filled with cement mortar or self-leveling mixtures, and after they dry, the floor is polished;
  • final leveling involves pouring a full-fledged screed, and the concrete floor will be even and ideal for the planned work;
  • leveling a wooden floor consists in replacing damaged boards, and flooring can also be created over the entire surface of the room using plywood or other plates, and laying laminate on plywood is simple.

A high-quality floor on which the laminate flooring will be laid is considered the main one for obtaining a high-quality result.
alignment
Grinding

Substrate and insulating layer

Laminate laying rules indicate the need to use special insulation and underlay before creating the floor itself. The explanation for this rule is quite simple. The fact is that the laminate is afraid of constant exposure to moisture, so it is important to prevent it from coming into contact with the concrete base.

A diffusion membrane or standard polyethylene is ideal for the insulating layer, however, its thickness must be greater than 5 mm, otherwise it will be easily damaged. What needs to be done with these films? They are spread over the entire surface of the floor, and all joints are glued with adhesive tape. It is recommended that the film go a little on the walls of the room.

In addition to insulation, you need to put a substrate that performs the most important functions:

  • increase the soundproofing parameters of the coating;
  • static floor is guaranteed;
  • small flaws in the base are leveled;
  • the coating is protected from moisture.

Laying a laminate on a concrete floor with an underlay is the right solution, and for the underlay, products made of polystyrene foam or cork can be chosen. Plates or rolls are simply laid out on the surface in an even layer with the obligatory gluing of the joints. If you need to lay a laminate on a floor that already has a linoleum coating, then there is no need for a substrate.

Experts assure that the floor material should be laid with the indispensable use of soundproof boards, which increase the comfort of walking on the floor. They are usually represented by thin panels laid out around the entire perimeter of the base.
Combined
Styrofoam Polyethylene
Cork

Do-it-yourself laminate laying process

It is important to know how to properly lay a laminate? This process should be carried out only in a certain sequence of actions, where each action is an important step in obtaining the ideal result. If laying the laminate with your own hands is done for the first time, then it is advisable to watch a detailed video tutorial in advance so as not to miss the most important nuances of the process.

Material calculation

Initially, it is important to decide how much material needs to be prepared so that the finishing of the room with laminate is carried out without stops and problems. During the calculation, the following features are taken into account:

  • which method will be used, with all the methods of laying the laminate indicated above, and the lowest consumption is available when using the standard orientation;
  • what is the area of ​​​​the room that needs to be laid with a laminate;
  • how much area each panel of the material has.

The calculation itself lies in the fact that the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is divided by the area of ​​​​one panel.

In order to lay the laminate on the floor without any interruptions, it is recommended to purchase material with a margin of 10 percent. You need to buy tiles from the same batch, because then all the elements will have the same appearance, so there will be no excellent panels on the floor. Required measurements

Tools

How to lay a laminate with your own hands, a step-by-step instruction involves the initial preparation of the necessary tools for this work. These include the following equipment:

  • a level or tape measure, as well as a corner, so that each tile of the coating is laid evenly and correctly;
  • an electric jigsaw or a sharp construction knife, which ensures even and high-quality cutting of elements;
  • a hammer that guarantees reliable fastening of all tiles;
  • sealant for laying laminate flooring.

As soon as all the tools are ready, the direct laying of the laminate begins with or without sealant.
Required Tools

Material laying

How to lay laminate flooring correctly? This process is carried out in ways that depend on the interlocks that all panels are equipped with during production. It is impossible to say how best to fix the tiles, since each method has its own characteristics:

  • Lock locks are represented by special latches. Here, do-it-yourself laminate flooring is laid in such a way that the crest of one panel enters the groove of the previous one. It is important to perform the process strictly in a vertical or horizontal position. To get a good joint, it is recommended to tap the tile, and it is also allowed to process the seams with silicone or glue. The use of sealant for laying laminate will protect the seams from various kinds of harmful effects;
  • Click locks are used in such a way that the comb is not only inserted into the groove of the previous panel, but also snapped into place, for which it is important to apply significant force for this. If you figure out how to lay a laminate with your own hands using such locks, you will ensure a high-quality and reliable result that does not require additional fixation with glue or silicone.

 Interlock options

It is allowed to assemble in separate rows or tiles. It is important to understand carefully how to lay the laminate with your own hands, so that this process is carried out automatically and quickly, so your floor will be laid quickly and correctly.

The installation process itself is divided into stages:

  • it is important to lay the first tile with the ridge against the wall, and it is important to leave a small distance between the coating and the walls, for which wedges are laid;
  • another laminating element is attached to the first panel, after which this work continues until the end of the row;
  • in order to know how to properly lay the material, it is important to prevent a difference in height or the occurrence of gaps;
  • if continuous installation is carried out, then the laminate is laid without thresholds.

Thus, correctly laid material will provide a durable and reliable coating that is pleasant and comfortable to walk on. It does not matter whether a transverse or longitudinal laying method was chosen. For additional fixation, it is allowed to treat each seam with a sealant. It is advisable to watch the video of laying the laminate in advance in order to avoid any mistakes.
Laminate step by step
Panels must fit snugly together.

Step-by-step instructions for working in difficult places

Often you need to figure out how to properly lay a laminate in unusual and difficult areas. In this case, a smooth and beautiful coating is guaranteed.

Around the pipes

Properly placed near the pipes, the material will be resistant to high temperatures, and no ugly effect will be created. The whole process is carried out in stages:

  • the distance from the pipe to the wall is determined, after which a mark is placed in the area where the hole will be located;
  • the diameter of the pipe is measured, after which it is necessary to take a tile in which the desired hole is created, and it should be slightly larger than the measured diameter;
  • standard laying of material is carried out, which ensures that the pipe is bypassed.

Skirting board installation

After the flooring process is completed, the installation of skirting boards begins. They must be selected in accordance with the color and parameters of the laid material. It is best to choose designs with internal fasteners, as they are really attractive, and also they do not have fasteners.

Different types of skirting boards require different types of fastening to the wall, so you should first read the instructions. If the wall is not too smooth, then it is better to opt for plastic skirting boards. Wooden models are suitable only for perfectly flat walls.

When installing skirting boards, it is attached to special grooves, while you need to make sure that they are not on the same level with the gap between the laminate and the wall.

Thus, if you understand well how to lay a laminate, this process will not cause difficulties. Each person who has completed this work will leave only a positive comment about its complexity, since in fact it is simple and efficient. This allows you to save on the wages of employees, and also guarantees an excellent result, which will provide the required material.

Beautiful and high-quality flooring is the key to getting positive emotions. In this article, we will take a closer look at how laminate flooring is done by hand, from preparatory work and tips when choosing tools, to tips on “bypassing” obstacles during installation.

We save on the work of the master!

Laminate - although a noble coating, its installation can be done without much difficulty with your own hands. In this article, we will explain in detail what's what.

If the floor surface is uneven, then the laminate laid on it will be subject to unwanted deflections. This can lead to failure of the coating, which will be especially noticeable on the butt surfaces. Therefore, before laying, an audit of the surface to be covered is carried out in order to identify its irregularities. For these purposes, use a conventional level. With significant differences in floor height, it must be leveled. In addition, wooden floors are carefully examined to identify boards that have become unusable. Rotten elements are removed, and new ones are installed in their place. A wooden floor can be leveled by lining wooden blocks under the boards, which regulate the position of the boards. At the same time, the thickness of the floor covering does not increase, which is especially critical for rooms with low ceilings. If it is not possible to adjust the position of the boards, then you can build another layer of plywood or OSB sheets directly on the existing one. At the same time, it must be carefully aligned with the help of all the same linings.

In addition to boards, plywood sheets or special fibreboard floorboards can be used on the floor. These materials also need to be leveled.


Is the floor even?

Leveling the floor with plywood or OSB boards is a mandatory step. Laminate is a rather fragile coating, demanding on the base.

In some types of residential buildings, wooden floors have ventilation holes that protect them from the harmful effects of various organisms and dampness. When laying an additional leveling layer on such a surface, care must be taken that these holes remain open. After laying the leveling layer, it is necessary to treat it with an antiseptic. The concrete surface is leveled with a screed. Before pouring, level beacons are mounted. Their height is calculated based on the minimum height from floor to ceiling of the room. The more beacons are installed, the more even the surface will be after pouring. To reduce thermal conductivity, you can cover the concrete floor with plywood, after laying a layer of waterproofing under it.

If the concrete pier has only small irregularities, then it will be sufficient to make the so-called "self-leveling" screed.

Used materials and tools

In addition to the actual laminated board, for work you will need the following materials:

  • Polyethylene foam backing;
  • Waterproofing film for concrete pavement;
  • Wedges to ensure gaps;
  • Construction pencil;
  • Plinth and fastenings for it;
  • Glue;
  • Masking tape.

Of the tools you will need the following:

  • Wood saw or electric jigsaw;
  • Measuring devices (tape measure, square);
  • mallet;
  • Hammer.

The list of everything you need is not so great, all the tools are ordinary and will probably be available from the home master. Instead of wedges, you can use wooden blocks or trimmings of the same laminated board if you do not want to purchase special devices.

Material selection and technology

Before starting work, you should calculate the number of boards needed. The calculation is carried out based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. Wherein you need to take a reserve of about 10% for unforeseen expenses, especially if the laminate flooring is being done for the first time. In the case of diagonal installation of the floor, the number of lamellas increases by another 20%. The underlayment, laid under the board, provides the necessary sound insulation. In addition, for concrete coatings, a substrate with increased thermal insulation properties should be purchased, as well as a waterproofing layer should be provided. It can be made from ordinary polyethylene film, overlapping it by at least 20 centimeters.
Before laying the substrate, it is necessary to carefully prepare the floor surface, cleaning it from dirt and dust. The substrate is not laid immediately on the entire surface, but on the area on which the board is directly lined, thus it is protected from excessive pollution. When laying, it is necessary to apply a substrate to the walls to a height of about 2 - 3 cm. Separate strips of material are butted together and fastened with adhesive tape.

Do-it-yourself laminate flooring


 The figure shows how to properly connect the laminate panels

Thanks to our step-by-step instructions, you will be able to install the coating yourself without any problems. There are two main types of laminate locks − lock" And " Click". The first type has a tenon on one board and a groove on the other, which are joined together by hammering or hammering. The second type is easier to install, since the boards are connected by inserting a hook on one side of the panel into the groove on the other at an angle and lowering the inserted board to a horizontal position with a characteristic sound, from which the name of the type of connection came from. " Click” refers to modern laminate assembly technology.
Regardless of the type of lock, the installation of a laminate floor starts from the first row. It starts from the window. Wedges are installed at the walls, which provide the necessary clearance. Before laying a row its length is measured to calculate the size of the last board. If it is less than 5 cm, then the first board is cut so that its length and the length of the last approximately coincide. Then a row is laid out, connecting the ends of adjacent boards, depending on the type of connection - driving with a mallet or hammer with a bar, or snapping.
The second row is marked in such a way that the ends of the boards do not coincide with the ends of the boards of the first row. For example, if the first row started with a whole board, then the second row starts with a cut one. not less than 30 - 40 centimeters. Thus, a staggered order of the lamellas is obtained, which ensures the uniformity of the load on the panels. Laminate cutting is done with a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw, which greatly speeds up the process.
Connecting rows when using " Click» - the castle can be produced in two ways. You can first lay out the second row completely without connecting it to the first. Then lift it up a little and insert the hooks into the grooves and snap the whole row into place. You can also insert the first board of the second row into the lock with the boards of the first, and insert the subsequent panels at some distance from the end of each other, then driving them into the lock with a mallet. In the same way we connect lock" - locks. We connect the last panel of the row with the penultimate one using a clamp, having previously measured its length, taking into account the gap to the wall.
The last row of cover may need to be trimmed on the long side. If the lock is being laid Cry» in the first way, then no additional tricks are needed. When assembling the Lok locks with the second method, you will have to use the clamp again, as well as when laying the last lamellas of the row. Laying adhesive laminate stands apart. Its main advantage is the use in rooms with increased complexity (for example, in the kitchen) and increased reliability and longer service life compared to conventional laminate floors. The installation of such a floor is based on the same principles and methods as the assembly of the laminate in the “Lock” lock, only the surfaces to be joined are additionally covered with a special adhesive. The assembly of the laminate is carried out in stages - every 3 rows there is a break to dry the glue. It is recommended to use such floors after complete drying, after about 10 hours. The disadvantage of such a coating is the impossibility of subsequent disassembly without destroying the structural elements.

Avoid obstacles when paving

The main obstacles when laying laminate flooring are heating pipes and various wall protrusions and depressions. The geometric frills of the walls are managed by cutting the boards, taking into account the necessary technological gaps.

When bypassing heating pipes, you have to use additional tools.

To begin with, the position of the passage of the pipe on the board is located. Then, using a special drill, for example, a feather or Forstner, a hole is made in the board, which should be slightly larger in diameter than the pipe. After that, in the transverse direction, the board is cut in the center of the hole into two halves. One half is installed from the side of the wall to the pipe, and the second to the rest of the row.

Diagonal stacking

This installation option of a laminated floor visually expands the area of ​​​​the room. Its only significant drawback is the increased consumption of material. Laying is carried out from the corner near the window. The first board of the first row is cut from the end against the wall at an angle of 45 degrees. Next, the entire row is laid out, running diagonally across the room. Then two rows are attached to it on each side. The starting and ending boards are cut along the wall with the required geometry for laying and with the calculation of gaps.

To simplify the task, a diagonal of fishing line is first stretched, which serves as a guide. You can lay out whole boards first, and only then do trimming near the wall panels. This way things will go much faster.

After installation is completed, all wedges are dismantled. The protruding edges of the substrate are cut off, leaving the necessary entry to the wall. A plinth is installed around the perimeter of the room. Its elements are attached to the walls, in no case to the laminate. Doorways are equipped with thresholds, for example, made of metal. In order for the laminate to last longer, should be kept away from water. Such a floor is washed with a damp cloth, after which it is desirable to wipe its surface dry. To protect the material from the harmful effects of water, joints can be treated with sealant when laying. If heavy furniture is installed in a room with a laminate flooring, then care must be taken to ensure that the outer layer of the floor does not collapse when it is moved. Also, contact of the laminate with sharp, heavy objects should also be avoided. Damaged boards lose their aesthetic appeal and their technological properties.
It is not recommended to mount the laminated board on a warm electric floor. The maximum temperature of the bottom surface of the laminate is 27 degrees Celsius. If it is exceeded, the panels will begin to dry out and the floor will deform. Installation work on the equipment of the laminated floor is carried out in rooms with a temperature not higher than 30 and not lower than 15 degrees. Relative humidity should be in the range of 40 - 70%. When calculating thermal gaps, it is necessary to proceed from the following calculation formula: for each meter of the length of the coating, the technological distance to the wall is 1.5 mm.

If you are unsure about making a floor covering with a laminate with your own hands, you can entrust this work to professionals. The cost of specialist services is approximately 200 - 250 rubles per square meter.

Properly laid laminate is the comfort of your home. Classic and vinyl, with a decorative and natural top layer - each type has its own advantages and disadvantages, they are united by one thing - the possibility of laying with your own hands.

Types of laminate

Each type of this coating has unique characteristics. To choose the right option as a floor covering, you need to familiarize yourself with its main types and study their properties.

Classic laminate

Its characteristic:

  • base - HDF or chipboard;
  • durable and wear-resistant;
  • protected from UV exposure;
  • stain resistant;

  • without a special substrate that comes with the kit or purchased separately, it has a boom;
  • tactilely cold material;
  • some options are mounted on a "warm floor";
  • heat resistant;
  • safe with formaldehyde emission class E1, E0;

  • non-moisture resistant classes do not withstand high humidity: their installation in the kitchen and bathroom does not make sense;
  • the antistatic properties of the coating (if any) will allow you to clean less often and, possibly, save you from the accumulation of static in the floor;
  • the locking system provides the possibility of reassembly and repair of the damaged area, instead of replacing the entire floor;
  • shapes, sizes - from short and narrow boards to long and wide; colors, colors, textures, the availability of designer models provide a wide choice for the discerning consumer;
  • the price of top-class coatings is not democratic, but it is not as high as the cost of a quartz-vinyl laminate.

Vinyl laminate

The coating is hard, made of composite plastic, completely waterproof, but not wear-resistant.

Feature of Flexible Quartz Vinyl Laminate:

  • Manufacturers claim a high level of safety of this material on the basis that it does not contain formaldehyde and heat-resistant, while modestly silent about phthalates - an additive in the composition for the flexibility of the product, which penetrate the environment throughout the entire operational period and accumulate over time in body, causing significant harm.
  • This laminate is approved for use in children's and medical institutions, despite the fact that when burned, it releases toxic substances - phosgene and dioxins.
  • It is durable due to the content of a large percentage of quartz (up to 75%), wear-resistant, polyurethane with corundum or without protecting the decorative layer. Fiberglass reinforces the polyvinyl chloride base.

  • Completely waterproof, they can even trim the shower.
  • Has antistatic properties.
  • There is a function of noise absorption, it does not need a substrate.
  • The surface is warmer than the surface of conventional laminate.
  • It can be mounted on a warm floor with a heating t not higher than 28 ° C.
  • Easy to clean, but tricky to install.
  • It is demanding on the base, but it fits on different types of coatings - cement, parquet, plywood, tiles, chipboard.
  • Adhesive-laid vinyl flooring is difficult to repair.

  • It has anti-slip components in the top layer.
  • The shape and dimensions are the same as those of a chipboard floor, a variety of decor - imitation of stone, tile, wood, leather.
  • When laying, the material is cut with a knife, the thickness is 2-3 mm, the higher the class, the greater the thickness of both the entire coating and the protective layer.
  • There are models with a chamfer, but there is no variety.
  • The price is one of the highest for floor coverings, comparable to the cost of natural wood flooring.
  • Rubber is contraindicated for this coating due to a chemical reaction with it.
  • This floor can be used in unheated houses - in summer cottages, it is intended for residential and public premises.

In addition to these two types of laminate, there are several more options for multilayer flooring, but more natural and environmentally friendly than these two: HDF parquet board, modular marmoleum and cork laminate. All of them are coated or impregnated on top with oil, varnish, wax. Cork

Cork coating is warm, but soft, even a protective film will not save you from dents. Natural linoleum in marmoleum laminate and precious wood veneer in the parquet board make these coatings attractive in terms of composition for consumers. They are produced in all classes, there are locks with moisture-resistant impregnation. They are suitable for different living spaces, the only exception is the bathroom.

As you can see, the choice of laminate flooring is great, the buyer will find one that he likes and can afford.

What will be needed for work?

Having decided on the type of laminate in terms of composition and external qualities, it is necessary to understand what is required for its installation. Flexible flooring requires fewer tools than classic laminate flooring.

A set of tools and materials for laying a conventional laminate with your own hands:

  • pencil and ruler or square;
  • roulette and level;
  • hacksaw or grinder, circular saw;
  • a hammer and a wooden block for fitting;
  • guillotine - a machine for cutting panels without dust and noise (optional, but very convenient);
  • podboynik and spacer wedges around the perimeter for clearance;

  • drill (for baseboards);
  • antiseptics and fire-resistant agents for wood bases;
  • primer for concrete, cement or plaster;
  • levelers, self-leveling floors or dry screed (plywood, chipboard, OSB);
  • substrate up to 3 mm thick;
  • waterproofing, if the base is concrete - for a wooden one is not needed.

Quartz-vinyl coating perfectly cuts a regular clerical knife. To knock out its planks with locking joints, you need a wooden mallet.

In addition to the listed tools for laying a conventional laminate floor, synthetic mastic may be needed if the locks of the selected coating were not treated by the manufacturer with similar products, but not based on beeswax, as it lays unevenly and leaves irremovable stains. It will only come in handy in this situation. Having processed the locks and joints with it, you will provide a more convenient assembly, protect the locks from mechanical damage and improve the lock hitch, and block the entry of moisture and debris at the joints. Some compositions are designed to restore the aesthetic qualities of the coating.

It is forbidden to cover the factory processing of locks with another composition, there is a possibility of spoiling it, while it cannot be improved.

Sealants for repairing old, parted seams, you will not need it soon, if at all. But when it is necessary to close joints that have weakened during operation, keep in mind when choosing a sealant that its color must match the color of your panels. Common sealant colors: wenge, pine, spruce. It is also important to find a high-quality water-repellent composition.

Now the “floating” method is mainly practiced: not fixed to the base, independent of it, but with the use of glue. In this case, you will need a special adhesive designed for these types of material, for example, Thomsit has already earned universal approval. The shift of the next row of planks relative to the previous one is half. PVA, like any other water-based adhesive, is categorically not suitable for laminate. Its use, instead of carefully sealing the joints, will cause the boards to swell.

The method of laying the coating with glue is called the method of sealing the seams: when each new board is attached with glue to the ends of the previous boards with glue. This results in a strong waterproof connection, the dismantling of which, as you understand, is impossible. If this suits you, then this reliable method is for you. As practice has shown, this method of installation is more reliable than locking. The main disadvantage of this method is the impossibility of installing the coating on the "warm floor".

How to calculate the material?

The amount of material depends on the area and geometry of the room, the type of installation chosen, the shape and size of the panels. You can resort to the seller's calculator on the Internet, but the error in his calculations is large. More precisely, you yourself will calculate by drawing up a floor plan with all the available ledges and openings, and you can check with the calculator later.

First, decide on the type and collection of the coating in order to find out the dimensions of the panels and their volume in the package, then take the minimum 5% error for defects in the package or appearing during installation. After that, select the type of laying - curly, deck, diagonal: the further error in the calculations will depend on it.

The main types of laying and the final calculation of the material:

  1. Curly - the most difficult and costly, it is necessary to make a 30% error on it.
  2. Add 15% to the diagonal.
  3. For the most optimal, in terms of complexity for beginners, deck laying - up to 8%.

Do not try to "save", thinking that you will calculate everything and do it without mistakes and defects: miser pays twice. As a result, your savings will result in additional expenses and wasted effort to find the material in the right amount and exactly the collection that you originally chose. It’s not a fact that you will find it quickly and whether you will find it at all.

Calculation example

Suppose you have selected a collection Original stamps Balterio: the dimensions of her board are 126.1 * 18.9 cm, 8 boards in a package. You have a deck type of laying, and the final footage, according to your drawing, is 30 m2. (126.1 * 18.9) * 8): 10000 = 1.9 m2 in one package, then we take 5% for marriage, and finally - 8% error for the deck type of laying. We divide our 30m2 by the volume of one package - 30: 1.9 = 15.79 packages * 1.05 = 16.58 * 1.08 = 17.9 packages, that is, we need 18 packages.

Please note that material consumption also depends on the level of skill of the stacker. For the first time, it is worth choosing a simple deck laying in order to get acquainted with the material and evaluate your strengths for further work.

If your house has old floors, then it is important to calculate the load on them, based on the weight of the laminate indicated on the package and the possible need for a screed, which will only increase it.

Step-by-step instruction

It involves checking all purchased packages for the complete identity of the panels in them. Of course, it is better to do this at the stage of purchase, and not at home. But you can also exchange material that does not match the main one. So you can identify a mismatch in shades or castle connections. Soak the laminate for 1-3 days in the room where it will be installed before laying. How many days of acclimatization is needed depends on the type of coverage. The "warm floor" is turned off a week before. Laying takes place at normal air t: from +17 degrees C, at a humidity of 40-70%.

The moisture rate for sand-cement, gypsum screed is up to 3%, for boards - 12%.

To properly lay the flooring, the manufacturer's laying instructions must be strictly followed. If you have a concrete base, you must overlap the waterproofing film by at least 15 cm, securing it with tape. Behind it lay a substrate that matches your coverage. The installation steps are the preparation of the base, followed by the laying of the laminate floor.

Foundation preparation

By the beginning of this stage of work, the material has already been selected and purchased, it depends on what the foundation will be. Vinyl flooring can be laid on several types of old flooring (parquet, tile), which will need to be leveled by filling gaps and eliminating height differences.

Vinyl is a thin material, all irregularities will be immediately noticeable, lock joints may not withstand, crack on drops.

Preparation includes:

  • Leveling an old uneven floor or dismantling it, followed by a screed.
  • Flooring waterproofing on concrete floor, but not wood.
  • Laying a substrate corresponding to the base, it is needed for a coating with a chipboard base. Vinyl and quartz-vinyl do not need it. The exception is cases when the cement screed came with a coarse leveling agent, there were large fractions: here it will be required - from cork or foam. Then the insulation will be improved, the crunch and drops of the base will be eliminated.
  • The last step will be the installation of a "warm floor", if it is planned.

The best solution for a vinyl floor will also be the dismantling of the old coating, but laying on its leveled surface is also allowed. The main thing is that the base for this type of laminate should be even, dry: with a 5% humidity level; clean: so that it can be swept, vacuumed, cleaned without the use of chemicals. The cracks must be sealed with putty, sanded at the finish.

Old parquet can be sheathed with plywood, and the tiled floor can be leveled with a special compound.

Before finishing laying, it makes sense to arrange a trial assembly to make sure that the calculation of the material is correct and the desired pattern, if any, is assembled correctly. Between dismantling and screeding or leveling, check the base with a level to determine how and how much to level the floor. For conventional laminate, all previous coatings must be removed. After leveling, the height difference should not be more than 2 mm for every 2 m.

The flat surface must be dry and clean. Next comes the waterproofing deck in succession - for concrete and substrate, unless it is a built-in option. The thickness of the substrate should not exceed 3 mm.

The substrate can be rolled or sheet: it is laid end-to-end, fixed with adhesive tape.

Pattern of layers for laying conventional laminate

Depending on the type of foundation preparation, it can take from several days to several weeks. But on the other hand, this type of work will become a guarantee of high-quality operation of the coating in the future.

Installation

On concrete floor with underlay

If you have not been able to purchase a material with a built-in soundproofing layer, a soundproofing underlay is needed for the laminate flooring. It does not soundproof, but rather dampens the noise of steps, plays a shock-absorbing role on height differences. no more than 2 mm. If you put it in several layers as a base, instead of serious preparation, you can quickly and irrevocably destroy the laminate floor.

It should only be used for its intended purpose.

It is possible to assemble a high-quality finish coating yourself with careful attention to the choice of substrate. The market offers many types of it:

  • It can be IPE - an inexpensive substrate that is suitable for concrete. It is not suitable for wood substrates such as plywood, chipboard due to its impermeability. It is easy to install, poorly insulates noise and loses volume during use. Any polyethylene substrate is laid end-to-end, and not overlapped, fastened with a tape. Remember its maximum thickness of 3 mm.
  • EPS - extruded polystyrene foam. Produced in slabs and rolls "accordion". EPPS with perforation is needed for the underfloor heating system (for concrete, DSP). This material is stronger than the first, there are options with an acoustic effect enhanced by 20%.

There is one drawback - the high cost.

  • There are more natural types of substrates - coniferous and cork agglomerate. Both options do not differ in the budget price. Among the disadvantages: cork can crumble over time, absorbs moisture.
  • A combined cork and rubber granulate Tuplex substrate has dielectric properties. Suppresses noise and vibration. Suitable for concrete and wood, does not require waterproofing.

Without it, bitumen-cork material is also laid, durable, with good sound insulation, but it is not suitable for a floor heating system.

On the wooden floor

Laying sheets of plywood or chipboard on an old wooden floor is not difficult, leveling and treating with an antiseptic if necessary. So you can strengthen the old floor, providing an even base for laying the laminate. Waterproofing with a waterproof film is not needed here, will play against the wood base, for which steam and air exchange is important. The substrate needs to be breathable - coniferous or cork agglomerate. Both options are suitable for wooden bases under parquet boards and ordinary laminate. Coniferous is mounted end-to-end, diagonally. Cork is a granulate of oak bark, mixed with resins and pressed. The cork underlay absorbs well and retains heat.

However, with all the pluses, the cost is too high.

Ways and types of laying

The main options for the layout of the laminate:

  • in the direction of the beams - along the luminous flux - for a smooth coating;
  • across the light flux - for 3D models and chamfered coatings;
  • in the direction of travel - reduces the load on the joints;
  • diagonally - increases it.

Diagonal laying in the kitchen

Determine how you will lay the floor: without thresholds, continuously throughout the apartment or in each room separately, then closing the joints with thresholds of a suitable decor. The latter method is safer in terms of the fact that your coating will definitely not bulge at the seams due to the absence of gaps not provided by the manufacturer to compensate for changes in geometry.

Scheme of common deck laying:

  • half the board: shifted 1/2 the length relative to each other, but in this case the seams stand out too much;
  • by a third: each board moves only 1/3 of its length, resulting in a natural look of the coating;
  • chaotically: offset to different lengths, then not the best coupling of the panels is formed.

The basic rule of installation is not to lay across the course of movement, otherwise the joints will be worn out ahead of time, and in general the floor will last less.

Deck laying in the kitchen-dining room in blue and white

Deck laying technology for classic lock-lock laminate:

  • Between the first row and the wall, it is necessary to place wedges of the same thickness (1.5 cm) every half a meter - this is a thermal gap, it goes along the perimeter.
  • The panels of the first row are successively attached to the wedge fence and joined with short ends at the desired angle.

  • The second row is connected to the first end of the long side in a straight line or joined at an angle. The first in the second row is a panel with a length of at least 30 cm. A bar is used to accurately pad the panels.
  • To bend around structures, pipes, a section is cut out in the panel with a margin of at least 1 cm, which is subsequently covered with an overlay. The last row will probably have to be narrowed by sawing the panels to the desired width along, that is, along their long sides. Having installed the last row, the wedges are removed, mounting a plinth around the perimeter, which is attached to the wall.

By choosing this simple type of laying and its desired direction - along the light or across the rays, you will achieve the desired aesthetic effect and cope with the installation technically, equipping the house with a strong solid floor.

Difficult places

With self-laying, you will encounter difficult places for installation - stairs, heating pipes, doorways, cracks. The latter are sealed at the stage of foundation preparation. In order not to leave a gap between the jambs and the new floor, it is necessary to file the bottom of the door frame rack to the thickness of the coating. The joints between the rooms formed as a result of reasonable discontinuous laying of the floor are sealed with decorative aluminum thresholds.

To take into account the change in the linear dimensions of the coating in the place of the heating pipes on the path of the laminated floor, cut a section for a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm more. Then he will not swell and warp in this place.

Finishing the stairs with this material cannot be called simple. When planning to sheathe a staircase, purchase thresholds for finishing internal and external corners.

At the end of the installation of the floor covering, it is necessary to install skirting boards. Experts advise choosing plastic as hiding bumps. Wooden ones are suitable for flat walls. Skirting boards are mounted to the walls, and the wires should not fall into the gaps between the floor and the wall. For wiring, there are grooves in which you need to place it. Waterproofing in the apartment, starting from the second floor, may be absent. And felt pads on the legs of the furniture will protect the coating from scratches.

Designers and installers recommend lay a laminate with a four-sided bevel of 33-34 classes across the rays of light, with good locks, and without a chamfer or with a two-sided chamfer, it is better to lay it out in the direction of the light, that is, perpendicular to the window. So the view will be more harmonious - the rays will illuminate the beautiful texture of the tree along the long side, and the open seams, if this happens, will be less noticeable.

Builders are advised to provide additional heat and sound insulation: if you need to improve these qualities of the floor without a heating system, you can use sheets of plywood or chipboard, sewing them into a concrete base. A concrete floor leveled in any way, like a base for a laminate, does not need them: after the base is ready, laying follows. But you can solve these problems with the help of these inexpensive materials, making it as smooth as a prepared concrete floor.

Warm floor

Choosing and installing an underfloor heating system is a responsible matter, which you can also handle yourself. Useful information to help you:

  • Under the floor heating system there should be a layer of thermal insulation (thanks to which the heat will rise up), as well as waterproofing - on a concrete base.
  • It can be an electric or water underfloor heating system.
  • It is not possible to heat rooms with different climatic conditions with one continuous system, for example, a room and an unheated balcony.

  • The moisture level of the finished screed before installing a warm floor does not exceed 3%, it is checked with an improvised means - a plastic film (S = 1 * 1 meter), under which there is no condensation on a dried screed after 24 hours.
  • If the thickness of the screed exceeds 3 cm, heat dissipation will be inefficient. It is also not advisable to lay a laminate for one underfloor heating system on another system that is not suitable for it: a water system on an electric one, for example. All characteristics are specified in the coating certificate.
  • Ordinary laminate can be safely heated up to 25 C, there is a thermostat for control - with water heating it is programmed for the maximum t.

  • The thermal conductivity coefficient of 0.05-0.15 laminated coating is suitable for heating system.

Do you want to freshen up your home? Have you chosen laminate for this purpose? If yes, then do-it-yourself laminate flooring (step-by-step video instruction at the end), which is described in this article just for you. After reading it, you will be able to see that it is very easy to do this. After all, you can lay the coating yourself, without resorting to the help of an expensive professional. Skills in construction work, of course, will not interfere, but even without them, with some effort, you will definitely cope with this task.

Read in the article

Which laminate to choose?

It all depends on the place in which you want to lay this type of coating. The choice of material type is influenced by:

  • Relative indoors;
  • The frequency of mechanical impact of heavy objects on the flooring surface;
  • The presence of water tanks located on the floor;
  • Exposure to heat rays that may come from heating devices;
  • Color spectrum .

On sale there is a huge one with varying degrees of protection. It remains for you to determine, according to the above indicators, which material to buy, thin or thick, waterproof or not, heat-resistant or household, light colors or dark. Next, you will learn how to properly and easily lay the laminate with your own hands with illustrative examples in the video.

How to lay a laminate floor with your own hands with an explanation and video demonstration

The first thing to do is to make sure that the floor is prepared for installation. It should be even and smooth. You can remove all irregularities by any means at hand, and some tools will be needed to perform basic work. Here is their list:

  • or on wood;
  • Hammer, chisel, hatchet;
  • Level, fishing line, tape measure, pencil;
  • Stationery knife, tape.

Nuances when installing laminate on different surfaces

Depending on the type of subfloor, the principle of laying laminate flooring is different. So, if the floor, then it is first spread from polystyrene or polystyrene, because such a floor will give cold to the laminate. If the floor is wooden, then it must be treated with an antiseptic and all moving areas (if any) must be eliminated, after which you can proceed with the installation of the laminate. When the material spreads over the old one, it is necessary to lay a special substrate on top of it with a denser structure than the standard one.

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Easy do-it-yourself laminate flooring. Step by step video instruction + detailed description

You can learn how to perform the installation procedure by watching the video of do-it-yourself laminate flooring, and also use the instructions below.

Step-by-step instruction

Stage one

First of all, you should pay attention to marking the floor along its entire length and width. Use laminate strips for this. And when you fix the markup, leave a small gap from the wall. Depending on the characteristics of the coating and the room in which it will be located, the gap must be at least 8 mm and not more than 12.

The peculiarity of self-laying is based on the fact that each individual layer of laminate is attached to another with the help of grooves. In part, this is reminiscent of assembling a mosaic or puzzle. If you attach the laminate elements with mounting adhesive, then be prepared for the fact that after some time, its excess will come out on the floor. This can happen due to the temperature difference that usually occurs indoors.


Stage two

If during the installation process, you notice any inaccuracies or irregularities, do not be discouraged, but rather pay attention to the tips that will be described below.

Advice! In the place where the layers of the laminate are connected to each other, drive in one nail at two different ends, and then pull a thin fishing line or thread and fasten it on these same nails. In this way, you can be sure that the laminate will lie as smoothly as you would like.


Stage three

Immediately after you have prepared the floor, marked the markup, and also selected the layers you need, they must be dismantled. In addition, a film must be distributed over the entire surface, the main purpose of which will be. Please note that professionals advise laying the flooring in stages, as you lay the flooring itself directly.


Stage four

Upon completion of laying the waterproofing flooring, it is worth taking care of the shock-absorbing flooring. Such a layer will also perform the function and strength. If we talk about what material such a flooring should consist of, then it can be the most common polyethylene or felt. Just like the previous one, it is desirable to lay this layer gradually, and not all at once. In this way, you can lay it evenly and securely.

Related article:

When choosing a material such as laminate, do not forget about a high-quality substrate, on which the useful properties of the flooring largely depend. In our review, we will find out which substrate for the laminate is better and how to choose the right one.

Stage five

At the moment when you are ready to start laying the laminate itself, make sure that the adhesive you are going to use was the consistency you need. Then, enter it into a special, building syringe and evenly distribute it on the end side of the plate. Try to calculate the dosage of glue in such a way that it fills the groove completely, but at the same time does not go beyond its edges. In the event that at the junction of two plates, the glue still comes out, then use a spatula to remove it from the surface.

Stage six

Now you need to return to the moment when you filled the groove of the laminate panel with glue. Let it dry a little, and then insert the tongue into the groove, which is located on the edge of the other plate. Next, fill the groove of the next flooring plate with glue and insert the tongue into it, respectively. Continue in this manner until the first row of flooring has been laid.


Stage seven

After all the above processes have been completed and successfully completed, it is worth paying special attention to this stage. Because on it, your main task will be to accurately measure the segment between the wall-end of the final layer. This can be achieved as follows: the extreme layer is superimposed on the previous one so that the spike of the extreme sheet is docked with the wall adjacent to it.

Stage eight

If you've followed all of the above tips, by the time you've reached Step 8, you've got your first row of flooring installed. After that, you should immediately start leveling all its individual layers. At an earlier stage, you have already pulled on a strong thread or fishing line, and now you can use it to carry out this procedure. From the side, determine how much the plates deviate and if the slope is large enough, then use wedges to return the laminate plate to its place, along the stretched line. In addition to the fact that you can adjust the plate relative to one side or another, you can also drive the formation lower with these same wedges or, conversely, raise it.

Note! As building practice and experience shows, in many apartments, especially old ones, laying laminate is often inevitably carried out next to pipes or batteries. You can get around this difficult situation very simply without any extra effort. You just need to cut out on the laminate layer, which will be adjacent to the pipe, a piece commensurate with the protrusion of the battery on the coating. If you cut off a piece significantly smaller than required, then this can be easily corrected on the spot. And if the cut notch turned out to be larger, then fill the space with your mounting adhesive. If your laminate is light in color, you can use a mixture of glue and sawdust to fill the space. Thus, the extra space will be less noticeable.


Stage nine

This stage can be called a break or rest. Immediately after the flooring is smooth, all the flaws and errors are eliminated and corrected, you need to let the floor "rest". At this time, the glue will dry and harden, the plates will securely fasten to each other and to the walls of the room. A one-hour break will suffice.


Stage ten

Next, at the end of the break, you need to transcend to laying the second, and most important layer of flooring. The side of one panel (side, top or bottom) must be moved a short distance (not more than 50 cm and not less than 30) from the junction of the panels of the first row. A more detailed process of laying the second layer of a particular laminate is most often described in the attached instructions.

But it is worth noting that there is one secret in this case. To make the laminate panels easier to connect to each other, use a small wooden block and another heavy object.


Stage Eleven

Strictly follow all the above tips and instructions, and you can be sure that your flooring will look spectacular and last for many years. The main thing to note is that each subsequent layer of laminate is superimposed on previously laid layers of two or more substrates. It is also important to note that both one and the other type of substrates are superimposed on each next layer with an overlap of 7 cm. And the place where they are connected to each other must be carefully lubricated with glue, for greater reliability. Features of the correct laying of a do-it-yourself laminate will be shown in the video, which is located at the end of the article.


Stage twelve

If laminate flooring is laid on a concrete base, all of the old flooring must first be removed. If chips or cracks are found in the concrete. And other defects, it is restored with a self-leveling compound. It should be borne in mind that vapor barrier material must be laid on a concrete base.

If the laminate is to be laid on a wooden floor, it must first be leveled by sanding. In addition, it is necessary to fix the substrate. Most often, plywood is used for this. This material is characterized by low cost and long service life.

If the laminate is laid in a room in which linoleum or tiles are fixed, no action is required. It is enough to lay the substrate under the floor covering and proceed to fixing the laminate.

Laying methods

Fixing the described floor covering can be done in the following ways:

  • with glue;
  • connection without glue.

When using the first method, glue is first applied to the edge of the panel, after which the next one is attached to it. Because this method is time consuming and complex, it is rarely used during material fixation. It is only necessary if a large load will act on the floor in a certain room.

More commonly used is a joint without glue, in which the panels are attached to each other by docking and snapping the lock. First, the panel is leaned against the one already installed at an angle of 30 degrees, after which it is lowered onto the substrate. At this moment, you can hear a click, which will mean that the flooring elements are securely fastened together.

Panel layout options

Most often, the panels of the described flooring are laid in the direction of the light. But if desired, you can lay diagonally or perpendicularly. In the classical way of laying, the first row of panels is laid first, after which a part of the last one is cut off and placed in the next row. Thus, the floor covering is placed over the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room. When choosing this method, an additional amount of material is not wasted, since all trimmings are used during installation.

The described installation method is most often used in large apartments or offices. This is justified by the fact that the minimum number of panels is used during operation. Laying is carried out towards the window.

The second way is chess masonry. It involves fixing all panels in a checkerboard pattern. When choosing this option, approximately 15 percent of the waste remains. That is why the method is rarely used.

Classic masonry involves fixing the panels diagonally. All flooring elements are laid at an angle of 45 degrees. It should be borne in mind that when choosing this option, about 15 percent of the waste also remains.

Material laying steps

Step-by-step instructions for laying laminate flooring are usually included with each package of material. Installation of flooring is carried out in several stages:

  • First you need to mark the floor. During the installation of the panels, it is necessary to leave a gap between the material and the wall of at least 8 mm. In order for the gap to be the same along the entire length of the wall, it is worth using wedges of the same thickness. During the described work, the material must not be glued to the substrate.
  • At the second stage, two nails are driven in, between which the thread is pulled. This is necessary so that the first row of material lies flat.
  • After that, the film is laid on the floor surface. Experienced builders recommend laying this material gradually.
  • Then it is necessary to lay the foamed polyethylene. The substrate is able to provide good sound insulation, which affects the level of comfort in the room.
  • At the next stage, the first row of lamellas is laid. To make the flooring more resistant to stress, glue is used when connecting the panels. It is applied to already laid products in the groove. After that, the next element is inserted with a spike at an angle of 30 degrees, after which it is lowered to a horizontal position. If glue appears on the surface, it must be removed immediately.
  • At the last stage, you need to check whether all the elements are laid evenly and whether glue protrudes on the surface.

    • After 4 rows, the laying process usually goes faster, since all actions are the same.

    Installation of skirting boards

    The fixing of the plinth does not occur to the floor covering, but to the wall. Since such products have different ways of fixing, before purchasing it is worth finding out which ones can be installed on the walls.

    There should be no gaps between the baseboard and the wall at all. That is why if the walls are uneven, they must first be leveled. If wires are laid under such products, they are tucked into a special groove. Do not hide wires in the gap between the wall and the laminate. This is due to the fact that during operation the floor covering can expand. The attached video will allow you to learn more details about the process of laying the material.