How to drain a plot at your dacha. How to drain an area without drainage using different types of plants? What drainage methods are available?

30.10.2023

Water is the main source of life for all plants, including garden crops. However, if there is too much moisture, then the area becomes unsuitable for growing anything. And not a single owner of dachas and country houses will like living in a flooded area.

Due to excess moisture, the foundation of the structure will soon begin to move apart and collapse; over time, cracks will appear on the walls, which will increase after prolonged rains. All this, of course, is sad, but this problem is completely solvable. How to drain an area of water with your own hands? Let's get rid of this problem together.

Drainage of the territory includes a number of measures and activities that are aimed at draining water from the surface of the earth or into a prepared drainage well.

With a small degree of soil moisture, simple methods are used, for example, planting moisture-loving trees and shrubs. This measure is quite adequate.

Radical drainage measures are needed in the following situations:

With a high groundwater level, reaching 1-2 meters to the surface of the earth.
The UGV rises to the basement or higher.
Clay or loamy soil does not absorb melt water and precipitation well.
Water accumulates on the site due to the fact that it is located in a lowland.
The area is swampy due to the proximity of a reservoir.

Each of these options involves selecting an effective method that will allow you to dry the area yourself.

What should you consider when choosing a reclamation method?

When choosing the most appropriate solution to the problem, you should consider:

soil type;
the level of its water permeability;
the area of land on which water stands;
optimal level of water reduction;
a period of time;
groundwater level at the site;
the presence of finished buildings on the site;
amount of vegetation;
direction of underground sources.

Dehumidification options

The most common methods for draining land are:

site drainage;
sewage pits and ditches;
raising the ground level;
planting moisture-loving trees.

Planting green spaces

This is the simplest way to solve the problem under consideration. Some trees and shrubs are capable of holding large amounts of moisture. This method is suitable if you need to drain a small area in the center of which a building has already been erected. Birch or oak trees are best suited as green “drying agents.” It is believed that these trees will help remove excess water from the soil surface.

Tip: Of the fruit trees, only plum will take root in an area with high humidity. Select varieties of springclod or damsons that will perfectly cope with the task and help remove unnecessary moisture.

How to plant trees correctly?

Dig a planting hole at least 1.5 m in diameter and up to 100 cm deep.
Fill the bottom with gravel for drainage.
Next, add a layer of fertile soil.
Plant a tree.
Fill the hole with soil mixed with coarse gravel (except for the space near the trunk of the seedling).

Raising the soil level

This is not very difficult to do: order several trucks with soil and evenly raise the soil in the drained area to the required height. Remember that it is best to do the drainage work before building the house, otherwise all the water will collect in the lowest place - near the standing house, and this is an even more difficult problem.

Soil drainage

Excess water in a summer cottage is a problem that can be solved by installing a drainage system. It is designed to ensure the outflow of surface water from the site if, for example, in the spring the land is flooded.

When starting to arrange drainage on the site, consider the following points:

terrain;
ground water level;
amount of precipitation;
communications plan;
placement of a cellar, basement or other buried buildings;
soil composition;
presence of vegetation.

A drainage system can even help drain an area with a high groundwater level. There are 3 main drainage design options:

open;
closed;
backfill drainage on the site.

Open drainage

This type of drainage consists of ditches that break through the site with a slope in one direction. It is in them that most of the atmospheric precipitation should accumulate, and then be transported to a drainage well or absorbed into the lower layers of the soil.

Open drainage of the site is most suitable for clay soils that do not permeate moisture well. Open ditches save you from a situation where water stands and does not go away due to the abundance of precipitation and melting, redirecting water coming from the soil surface.

Open drainage is easy to install with your own hands. The depth of the ditch is calculated taking into account the location and purpose, and the width is one third of the depth.

It should be remembered that near buildings the depth of the channel should be 250-350 mm below the base of the buried supports. In addition, ditches cannot be located around the perimeter of buildings, so as not to cause deformation of the foundation. Carry out drainage work on the arrangement of open drainage in the following order:

Line the ditches with geotextiles with a good margin on the sides.
Pour coarse gravel half or 2/3 deep.
Next, pour fine gravel so that there is 10-15 cm left to the ground level.
Wrap the edges of the geotextile, protecting the bulk layer from silting.
Form a layer of sand and soil on top.

Note! If you use painted decorative gravel in light blue or dark blue, you can decorate the ditch to look like a dry stream.

Closed drainage

With a closed drainage option, a network of polyvinyl chloride pipes is buried in the ground, with the help of which excess moisture will go into separately located drainage wells. The pipes are wrapped in geotextile to filter out sand and soil particles.

The principles for calculating the size and depth of closed-type drainage are the same as for the open version. There is only one difference: the walls can be made vertical, since the layer of filter rock will act as reinforcement in this case. Closed drainage of the site is a salvation from groundwater.

Backfill (deep) drainage

The layout of the backfill drainage is similar to the previous option. The difference between the closed and backfill options is that instead of pipes, the trench is half filled with broken bricks or large crushed stone. The upper part of the ditch is filled up. The topmost layer of drainage is formed from soil.

Important: Backfill drainage quickly silts up. This problem can be prevented by creating an additional filter layer of tecton or geotextile.

Digging holes and ditches

Many owners drain their summer cottage by digging main holes and ditches. How to get rid of excess moisture using this method?

Pits

The simplest solution, if it often floods, is to dig a hole with your own hands in the lowest areas 80-100 cm deep, 2 m wide on the surface and half a meter at the bottom. Despite its simplicity, this system is quite effective: excess water from the site will accumulate in these pits. Water reduction will be ensured in the rest of the territory.

Ditches

The ditch system is a little more difficult to organize. The most commonly used option is open diversion ditches, which will remove melt water from the site. To do this, dig ditches with a width and depth of 40 cm along the perimeter of the land plot. The walls of these ditches should be beveled by 20-25°.

The main disadvantage of this method is that the walls of the ditch will gradually crumble and become clogged with small debris. To strengthen them, you can use wooden boards or concrete slabs.

You can place a pallet made of concrete or metal at the bottom of the ditch. The ditch will have to be regularly cleared and removed from debris and vegetation using a shovel. A common drainage ditch, which is installed along the road, serves as a water intake.

So, draining the area with your own hands is a completely solvable problem. You just need to choose the most suitable method and put in a little effort. And there are plenty of options for what the owner should do in this case and how to deal with excess water on the site. Let's get rid of the problem - and live for our own pleasure!

If the purchased country plot is located on a peat bog, its owners will have to carry out a number of works to improve the soil on it. The land in such places, unfortunately, cannot be considered too suitable for growing various types of agricultural crops. The soil in peatlands contains very little oxygen, which replaces methane. Also, such areas in spring and autumn turn into a real swamp due to flooding. How to drain peat land if necessary - we’ll talk about this later in the article.

Ways to improve

In some cases, the problem of swampy land can be solved in a very simple way - by adding a certain amount of soil brought from outside. But, of course, this technique can only be used when water is collected on the site due to the fact that it is located in a lowland and has a relatively small size. In all other cases, water must be drained from the allotment.

The answer to the question of how to drain an area, in this case, can be two technologies:

superficial;

with pipe laying.

The first method is considered the simplest. It will be absolutely easy to do open drainage in a wetland with your own hands. But by using pipes, you can create a more efficient drainage system.

Drainage using ditches

This method is a good answer to the question of how to drain a swamp on a peat bog. The advantage of this method, among other things, is that when using it, owners will not have to spend a penny on draining water from the site. For drainage in this case, along the edge of the plot on the side that is located below the others, a ditch about 50 cm wide and at least 1 m deep is dug.

If there is a slightly higher, also marshy neighboring area nearby, a trench should be made on the border with it. This will block access to water from someone else's plot.

Subsequently, during the implementation of various types of channels on the site, it will be necessary to fill with all kinds of construction and garden waste. This could be, for example, stones, broken bricks, weeds, etc.

Advantages of using pipes

The open method of draining water through ditches is simple and inexpensive. However, this technique is used only in areas that are not very wet. In all other cases, it is advisable to equip the plots with full-fledged drainage systems using perforated pipes.

The answer to the question of how to drain a swamp in a garden, this technology in most cases is simply ideal. The advantages of such outlet networks, among other things, include:

more uniform and rapid regulation of water balance in the soil;

possibility of covering absolutely the entire area of the site.

When using this method, the hoses pass underground. Thanks to this, the usable area of the site is not reduced. When growing garden crops on such an allotment, beds can also be made directly above the pipes.

How to set up a closed system

In this case, ditches are also first dug on the site to drain water. In this case, the main trench is located around the perimeter of the plot. Next, ditches are dug across the area of the site.

When using this drainage method, a waterproofing agent is placed at the bottom of dug trenches - a thick film or roofing material. Next, pour a layer of medium-sized crushed stone or pebbles into the ditches. Perforated pipes are laid on top. To prevent the holes of such drainage lines from becoming clogged in the future, they are pre-wrapped with geotextiles.

Connect pipes at the points of convergence or intersection of ditches using tees or elbow fittings. Above these network elements, inspection wells made of plastic or concrete must be installed. If there are such additions in the system, in the future it will be very easy to remove blockages that appear in the lines and clean them from accumulated sludge.

What you need to know

Of course, in order for the water to subsequently leave the area through the pipes by gravity, they must be laid at a slope. Otherwise, it will not be possible to drain the plot. Unfortunately, it is impossible to install drainage network lines at too great a slope. In this case, the pipes will subsequently silt very quickly. It is also not worth making the slope of the drainage channels very small. Otherwise, the system will subsequently work ineffectively.

In most cases, when installing garden wastewater networks, pipes are laid at an angle of 0.5 to 3 cm per linear meter. There is no need to deviate from these parameters up or down.

Reception well

Thus, we found out how to drain the area using pipes. But where can you put the excess water itself? You can drain it from the site, if it is located on the outskirts, simply beyond its aisles - into some ravine, stream or pond. But if there are neighboring plots next to the wet garden, a special well will have to be installed to receive wastewater. If desired, such a container can be built in a remote area. After all, the water collected during drainage can subsequently be used to water the same beds.

Reception wells are installed at the lowest point of a suburban area using the following technology:

a hole is dug in the ground into which the main drainage trench is inserted;

The bottom and walls of the pit are concreted with a layer of 5-10 cm.

Of course, when pouring concrete structures of a well, holes should be provided for installing pipes.

Instead of a concrete structure, a plastic one can be used when arranging a drainage system. It will be easy to purchase such a container from companies specializing in the supply of equipment for drainage systems.

Reception pond

In most cases, owners of vegetable gardens on peat bogs build, of course, a well for water drainage. But instead, if you wish, you can make an artificial pond on the site - a beautiful decorative pond. In this case, a pit is also first dug in the ground, but wider.

The bottom and walls of the pit for arrangement on the site of an artificial reservoir are thoroughly cleaned of roots and stones. Next, the pit is lined with durable waterproofing material - preferably a thick film. Drainage pipes are led into the pond through holes in the film. You can camouflage them at the bottom, for example, with beautiful stones or some aquatic plants. In summer, it will be possible to release unpretentious fish from the aquarium into this reservoir. Spectacular marsh plants are usually planted around the pond.

Main difficulty

In principle, as you might have noticed, the answer to the question of how to drain an area of water with your own hands is quite simple. The most difficult task in this case will most likely be physically difficult excavation work. After all, there are actually a lot of ditches that will have to be dug on the site. However, in order for such a system to work as efficiently as possible, trenches on the site, of course, should first of all be in the right places.

It is best, of course, to entrust the project of arranging the drainage system of a swampy plot to a specialist. A professional will be able to take into account all the nuances of the relief of a given area. However, drainage system projects in suburban areas are, unfortunately, quite expensive. If you don’t have the money to order a pipe laying plan, you can try to develop it yourself. To find out where the best place to dig drainage trenches is, you will have to wait until the first heavy rain. By observing the flows flowing along the ground, it will be possible to quite accurately determine the optimal location of the trenches.

How to drain a swamp: using moisture-loving plants

Of course, in most cases, draining a wetland can only be done in drastic ways - by constructing ditches or laying pipes. But as an additional measure, such a garden should also include plants that draw a lot of water from the ground. These could be, for example, willows, birches or maples. Such trees, since they are significant in height, are, of course, usually planted on the northern side of the plot. Otherwise, in the future they will block the plantings, which, in turn, can easily lead to a decrease in the yield of garden and vegetable crops.

The high groundwater level in the area can also be reduced with the help of shrubs. For example, hawthorn, rosehip, bladderwort, and shadberry can take a lot of water from the soil. Such plants can be planted around the perimeter of the site to create a hedge.

Methane in soil

Of course, after drainage by open drainage or by laying pipes, the soil on the site in any case will become more suitable in composition for growing vegetable and garden crops. But in order to further improve its quality, site owners will have to:

sprinkle a thin layer of a mixture of clay and sand over the area;

carefully dig up the plot using a shovel or, preferably, a motor cultivator.

Of course, a very good solution would be to scatter manure mixed with sawdust around the site before digging, in addition to clay and sand. This will not only improve the structure of the soil, but also make it more fertile and nutritious. Adding various types of mineral fertilizers to the soil will also make it more suitable for growing vegetable and garden plants.

Pros of peat bogs

So, we found out how to drain a plot of water with our own hands and improve the soil on it. Such an allotment can, of course, cause a lot of trouble for its owner. However, peat bogs, in comparison with other types of soil, also have their advantages. For example, in such areas, plants usually tolerate winters much better. The soil on peat bogs freezes slowly, in thin layers. At the same time, the soil on such plots never freezes too deeply. So on such a plot after draining it, you can plant, for example, heat-loving roses, apricots, etc.

Many people believe that the higher the soil moisture, the better for plants. In reality this is not entirely true. There are many plants that thrive in a humid environment. These include weeping willow, birch, currants, sedge, nettle, etc. However, most crops are not able to develop in overly moist soil, since it becomes very compacted, which deprives the plant roots of access to air and gradually leads to their death. In addition, wet soil has a detrimental effect on buildings, reducing the life of the foundation. To solve this problem, it is necessary to build a pile foundation. However, you can get rid of all these problems by draining the area yourself. The main thing is to accurately determine the cause of its swampiness. There are a number of different drying methods. To choose the most suitable one among them, you need to consider the following factors:

presence of buildings on the site;
direction and level of groundwater occurrence;
soil composition, its water resistance;
height to which it is necessary to reduce the groundwater level.

The main causes of excess soil moisture

In some cases, it is not easy even for specialists to establish the reason why a swamp has formed on a plot of land. As a rule, excessive soil moisture is caused by two main reasons:

The location of the land plot in a low-lying reservoir, as a result of which groundwater is located quite close to the surface. This reason is not often confirmed, since few people buy land in wetlands.
Disruption of normal water flow due to heavy rainfall. This problem can be caused by a variety of factors, including the location of the site below adjacent sites, the presence of a water source feeding the swamp, or the presence of a layer of viscous clay near the surface. Each specific situation uses its own solution to the problem.

High location of groundwater

To drain groundwater located near the surface, a fairly deep closed-type drainage is used. It is placed around the perimeter and throughout the entire area of the land plot. If draining water deep into the ground does not lead to the desired result, then it is necessary to construct a drainage well and use a pump to constantly pump out the water and discharge it outside the site.

Clay soil

Soil with a high clay content does not allow water to seep through easily, so it remains soggy for a long time after rain and snow melt. If a piece of land has a slope, then water flows from the soil surface located above it. In such cases, the best solution is to use open and fill ditches to store and drain water deeper into the soil. The use of closed-type drainage is not so effective, and the formation of a filtration layer to the soil surface is not justified in all cases.

swampy area

A very effective, but extremely expensive solution is to raise the soil level and build a drainage ditch around the perimeter. Before you begin draining a plot of land, you need to decide on plans for its future use and calculate the optimal depth of water drainage. In case of seasonal waterlogging of the site, you can dig a ditch in its lowest part. In addition, it is necessary to arrange open drainage channels, which are often located throughout the entire site. Sloping areas must be protected from soil sliding by planting plants.

Location of the site in the lowland

To combat waterlogging, you can use a drainage well and pump. If possible, it makes sense to build a reservoir in the lowest part of the territory and make closed drainage throughout its entire area. The soil should be drained until conditions for development are provided for plants and the foundations of buildings do not collapse.

Soil delivery

To increase the surface level of the site, you can bring in fresh fertile soil. If you plow it, it will mix with the marshy soil, and crops can be grown on the site. Land plots treated in this way do not require fertilizers over the next few years. But we still need to take into account that a swamp is a stable ecosystem, so after some time the area can return to its original appearance.

Adding Sand

If you add sand in equal proportions to the soil of the site, the quality of the soil will improve and air exchange will increase. If you additionally add humus, you can grow herbs, berries, and vegetables on the site. Adding sand to wetlands is one of the most effective reclamation methods. It is especially effective when used on clay soils with some excess surface water.

Drainage

The most effective method of draining surface water for a long time is to create a drainage system. For its arrangement, plastic pipes are used, the walls of which have small holes. They need to be wrapped in geotextile in two or three layers, based on the size of the soil particles. The pipes are placed in pre-dug channels to the following depth:

for sandy soils - up to one meter;
for loams - by seventy to ninety centimeters;
for clay soils - by sixty-five to seventy-five centimeters.

Channels for pipes are made with a slope to allow water to flow to the lower part of the land plot. In gardens located in wetlands, a ditch is usually dug for general water drainage. In case of its absence, it is necessary to consider how to ensure the drainage of excess water into a nearby reservoir. Channels can be filled with gravel or crushed stone. When using this technology, the situation improves significantly after two weeks.

Planting moisture-loving trees

Moisture-loving trees help effectively rid a wetland of excess moisture. Birch, willow and alder grow well on such soil. They evaporate excess moisture through the leaves. Birch and willow trees effectively drain wetlands, but sufficient drying takes several years. In addition, waterlogged soils are suitable for growing viburnum, blueberries, and cranberries. Sedges and reeds usually grow in wetlands. To destroy them, you need to drain the area in a suitable way, for example, by draining excess water into the nearest body of water. These plants have a powerful root system, and to prevent the appearance of new growth it is necessary to remove it.

Use of open and closed ditches

Using open drainage ditches you can remove excess moisture from the soil surface. Their edges are beveled at an angle of twenty degrees. The disadvantages of this method include rapid shedding of the walls, stagnation of water due to contamination of its outflow with debris and leaves. For this reason, such drainage structures require regular shoveling. The use of open drainage ditches in areas with sandy soil is impossible due to the rapid leaching of sand, as a result of which water drainage is ineffective. It is best to arrange an open drainage ditch near the fence so that it does not create any interference. Closed drainage ditches are deep trenches that are filled with sand and disguised as garden paths. Their advantages lie in aesthetics, and also in the fact that the soil in them does not crumble, and the water inside does not bloom. In order for the drainage system to function correctly, trenches are dug to a layer of sand that absorbs water, or drained into a well.

Digging a well or pond

Arranging a decorative pond allows you to create a reservoir to collect excess water, where it will gradually evaporate. At the same time, the land plot will become much drier, and the pond itself will become a decoration of the landscape. Wells are no less effective than ditches. To arrange them, holes are dug at the lowest points of the land plot and sand or crushed stone is poured into them. In the upper part, the diameter of the pits is 2 m, in the lower part - 0.5 m, and the length is approximately 1 m. After rain or snow melts, excess water gradually flows into them.

Raised beds

To grow strawberries, vegetables, and herbs on excessively wet land plots, high beds are arranged. Excess water collects between them, and the plant beds become drier. This method allows you to cultivate agricultural plants even in areas with excess water.

Excessive amount of water on a plot of land prevents normal farming and gradually destroys structures. Excess water contributes to the leaching of nutrients from the soil, causing salinization of the soil, and it washes away the roots of trees and the foundations of buildings. That is why every owner who is faced with a similar problem needs to know how to drain the area. This is a rather labor-intensive, but do-it-yourself task.

Selecting a method

There are several different ways to dry an area. Before choosing any specific one, you need to consider the following points:

Water permeability of the soil on the site.
Dimensions and shape of the pit.
Required level of water reduction.
The period for which it is necessary to drain the land from groundwater.
The presence of buildings and various types of structures on the site.
Groundwater direction.

It is possible to organize surface drainage of groundwater. In this case, they will penetrate through the slopes and bottom of the pit into drainage ditches, and then be transported to pits, from which they will be pumped out using pumps. When organizing such a system on fine-grained soils, a mixture of sand and gravel is used to fill drainage ditches.

It is possible to organize groundwater drainage without the use of pipes. Deep trenches are being dug. They must be filled with filter material. Most often, coarse sand and crushed stone are used for this. The material is covered in several layers of different fractions. In addition, peat must be used. It will protect the backfill from contamination.

Decorative pool for collecting atmospheric water from a personal plot^ 1 – water-loving plants; 2 – covering the site and path with natural stone; 3 – pool bowl; 4 – bench; 5 – weeping willow; 6 – stones-boulders; 7 – water filling pipe (fountain); 8 – step slabs.

The pipe drainage device for groundwater is organized using polymer pipes with a perforated surface. The pipe is laid in the ground below the freezing level. Holes are made along it to collect water.

If it is necessary to lower the groundwater level by 3-5 m, lightweight wellpoint systems are usually used. This system is based on a pipe with a wellpoint at the end.

It connects to the vacuum manifold and pump. If it is necessary to reduce the groundwater level by a large amount, such installations are arranged in several tiers.

Wellpoint installations may include ejector water lifts. The ejectors are driven by the action of a jet of water, which is pumped by the collector. Using such installations, it is possible to lower the groundwater level by 20 m.

Return to contents

Water drainage

Before you start designing a system for draining groundwater, you need to decide where it will be drained. There are several options available to choose from.

A savings system can be organized. This is the best option for regions with large seasonal fluctuations in humidity. For example, during a wet spring, water will accumulate, and in a dry summer it will be used for irrigation. Groundwater will be collected in containers specially designed for this purpose. They can be left on the surface or buried if desired. Water can also be collected in an artificial reservoir, but this requires more serious material and labor costs.

If your village has a common water drainage system, it makes sense to organize groundwater drainage into such a system. If there is free territory around the site, water can be diverted there, but in most cases this is impractical.

If there are no options for draining water, it will have to be stored. For this purpose, special tanks are brought to the site. As the tanks fill, the cesspool truck is called in and they are emptied.

Quite often, land owners combine several methods. For example, in the spring they accumulate water in reservoirs, use it in the summer for irrigation, and in the fall they divert what is not needed.

As a rule, the need for groundwater drainage appears only on loamy and clayey soils. Sandy soils themselves perform the function of drainage.

Return to contents

Step-by-step instruction

In order to organize a traditional drainage system, you will have to carry out a large amount of excavation work and invest a lot of money. However, all this allows us to obtain a semi-automatic system. In a couple of weeks, the water will collect on its own in the drainage well; as it accumulates, the owner will pump it into a ditch, storage tank, or nearby free area such as a forest, field, or ideally a natural reservoir. It is important that the water level in the drainage well does not exceed the desired height of groundwater on the site. Otherwise, the water simply will not drain.

However, most owners, in order to save money, use a different method of organizing groundwater drainage. It is more cost effective but less efficient than a traditional drainage system. When choosing this method, you need to be prepared for high labor costs during operation.

To install a groundwater drainage system, you need to prepare the following:

Shovels for digging trenches.
A wheelbarrow.
Construction level and staff.
Hacksaw.
Drainage pipes, fittings and couplings.
Manual tamper.
Wells for drainage.
Crushed stone, sand, geotextiles.

First, you need to dig parallel trenches around the site at a distance of 4-6 m from each other. The specific step depends on the density of the soil. If the soil is heavy, trenches should be made in smaller increments. Select a location for the drainage well. The entire system must be made with a smooth slope in the direction of the well so that water flows into it by gravity. Use a building level to check the slope.

The ends of the trenches located below the level must be connected to each other with a new trench and taken to the drainage well. The new trench should also be located at a slope in the direction of this well. If it is not possible to connect them according to this scheme, you will have to install several drainage wells.

The bottom of the trenches is filled with a mixture of gravel (crushed stone) and river sand. A layer 30-50 mm thick will be sufficient. Drainage pipes are being laid. As a rule, polymer pipes with holes along their length are used. To prevent these holes from becoming clogged during operation, the pipes must be wrapped in geotextile. You can also use a more durable analogue of geotextile - coconut fiber.

After laying the pipes, the trenches must be filled to the top with a mixture of crushed stone and sand. Everything must be arranged so that the pipes do not come into contact with the soil. They need to be surrounded on all sides with a mixture of crushed stone and sand.

Return to contents

Drying system

Based on the height of the plants, you can determine the depth of groundwater.

Instead of a large-scale system, point drainage can be organized. For this purpose, holes with a depth of 2 m are prepared throughout the site. The distance between holes is 6 m. In most cases, it is enough to drain only some areas of the site, but this depends on the specific conditions.

The bottom of the holes is filled with the same mixture of crushed stone and sand. Sections of drainage pipe are wrapped in coconut fiber (geotextile) and inserted vertically into the holes. The bottom of the segments also needs to be plugged with geotextiles. Select a pipe of such diameter that your drainage pump can easily pass through it. The diameter of the hole also depends on the diameter of the pipe wrapped in geotextile - it should be about 10 cm larger.

Such a system requires regular participation of the owner. On average, once every 1-2 weeks you will need to take a drainage pump, place it in each hole and pump out the water. The work is simple and takes little time.

Not all owners of suburban plots are “lucky” with ideal hydrogeological conditions. It is often only during the process of cultivating the land or building that they realize that groundwater lies high and that during flood periods there are puddles for a long time. There is no need to worry, drainage will solve this problem. Agree, building it is much easier than looking for a perfect site.

The drainage system will remove excess moisture from the soil and plant layer, which will ensure the normal growth of cultivated green spaces. It will divert underground water from the foundation in case of contact, and protect the basement and inspection pit of the garage from flooding.

Those who want to arrange the drainage of a garden plot with their own hands or through the efforts of a team of landscape workers will find detailed answers to all sorts of questions from us. Our material describes in detail the options for groundwater drainage systems and methods for their construction.

A drainage system that collects and drains excess groundwater is necessary in the following cases:

The plot is flat, i.e. there are no conditions for spontaneous movement of water downhill.
Groundwater is noted at a level close to the earth's surface.
The site is located in a lowland, river valley or drained swamp area.
The soil-vegetative layer develops on clay soils with low filtration properties.
The dacha was built on a slope, not far from its foot, which is why when precipitation falls on the site and around it, water accumulates and stagnates.

Installation of drainage is almost always necessary in areas with underlying clay soils: sandy loam, loam. During periods of heavy rainfall and snow melting, this type of rock allows water to pass through its thickness too slowly or does not allow it to pass at all.

Stagnation of water at the level of soil development is associated with waterlogging. In a humid environment, the fungus actively multiplies, infections and pests (slugs, snails, etc.) appear, which leads to diseases of vegetable crops, rotting of the roots of bushes, perennial flowers and trees.

Due to stagnation of water, the soil and plant layer becomes waterlogged, as a result of which plants die in a water-saturated environment and the appearance of the site deteriorates. The drainage system allows you to eliminate moisture instantly, preventing its long-term impact on the ground

If the problem of waterlogging of the soil is not addressed, erosion of the soil may occur over time. In frosty weather, soil layers containing water will swell, which can cause damage to the foundation, paved paths and other landscaping facilities.

To check whether drainage is necessary, you need to find out the throughput of the soil layers on the site. To do this, dig a small hole 60 cm deep and pour water into it to the maximum.

If the water is absorbed within a day, then the underlying soil has acceptable filtration properties. In this case, there is no need for drainage. If after two days the water does not go away, it means that clay rocks lie under the soil and plant layer, and there is a risk of waterlogging.

Due to the heaving of water-saturated rocks, the walls of residential structures may crack, as a result of which the building may become unsuitable for permanent residence

Image gallery

Owners of land in a lowland or on a steep slope are faced with a problem when water stagnates in the lowest place, when the water intake may be located higher. In this case, in the lower part of the territory it is necessary to build a storage well into which a drainage pump must be installed. With its help, water is pumped upward and discharged into a ditch, ravine or other water receiver.

If it is planned to build a absorption well on the site to utilize the collected water, then the work on its construction is carried out in the following sequence:

Image gallery